Hopi

I really don’t have a lot to show for the first two days of the Road Scholar Program. We started Tuesday at the Heard Museum in Phoenix which featured art and culture of the Indians of the Southwest. This mural shows the many tribes dancing together.MuralPano

It was dark in the museum and I tried to photograph some of the baskets, pottery and jewelry but with little success. I did come up with one halfwJewleryay decent shot of some Hopi Kachinas and some Navajo jewelry. After lunch at the museum we proceeded to make our way to the Hopi Second Mesa through snowy Flagstaff. It was a 5-hour bus ride and visibility was not too good due to the rain and snow. It has been a dry year here and everyone is glad for the moisture though it did literally put a damper on our activitieKachina2s.

I may have mentioned that absolutely no photography is allowed on Hopi lands. It was explained to us that the reason is because in the past pot hunters have used photographs to locate sacred objects which have been stolen from the Hopi resulting in an irreparable loss to their culture.

We were allowed to take photographs during a demonstration of Hopi DorothyAmipottery making Wednesday morning. Their pots are made with coils rather than turning on a wheel and they are fired by burning sheep dung in an open fireplace rather than a kiln. Designs are painted onto the pots before they are fired and artist needs to understand how the various pigments will change during the firing.

In the afternoon we visited Old Oraibi Village, said to be the longest continuously inhabited settlement in North America. It was a little sad to see that many of the old structures had been torn down and replaced with concrete block houses. Though the village does not have electricity or Pottery1indoor plumbing there were solar panels and satellite dishes in evidence on many of the homes.  

The Hopi are an interesting people and I would like to know more about them. Our guided explained that Hopi is not really the name of a group of people but a way of life. The Hopi separated themselves from other Puebloan groups in order to pursue a more peaceful lifestyle. On our last day on Second Mesa we were treated to a traditional Hopi meal prepared by our Hopi guide’s wife.

Route66

There were no photos yesterday because yesterday was all about getting from Bishop to Kingman, Arizona. And honestly, there is not a whole lot between Bishop and Kingman except sagebrush and barren mountains. And Las Vegas. What I remember about Las Vegas is five lanes of traffic going 80 mph. Then there was the Sunday afternoon traffic going home to Phoenix from Vegas. All in all, not a fun time. So glad I didn’t need to get on I-40 eastbound at Kingman. At least, I got my first taste of really good Mexican food since I left the southwest 4 years ago.

But today! TodCadillacAbstractay was all about Route 66!  There is a stretch of the old highway now maintained by the State of Arizona as AZ66 which veers far away from the interstate and passes through some towns which have dedicated themselves to preserving the history of the iconic route. I had the most fun just looking for abstracts of parts of old cars and trucks.

On my first stop I got this shot of the side panel of a Cadillac from the 1960s. DesotoThe next two, a wrecked DeSoto and the hood ornament of a dodge ram truck from the 1930s were found at the Hackberry General store which is a treasure trove of old cars, coca cola signs, gasoline signs and even an old tractor or two.

By the time I got to Seligman the tour buses had started to show up. So, I drove on through and made a vow to try again on my way back. Instead, I pushed on for RamAbstracta sneak peak at Williams where I will be staying on the first night headed back. Williams is a city that has built its economy on its erstwhile position on Route 66 and its proximity to the Grand Canyon. If you are looking for Route 66 kitsch, you will find it in Williams. I found this 1950s ford reflecting its red and white restored gas station for a great hood ornament abstract.

I made it to Phoenix in one piece and hooked up with my Road ScholarFordAbstract group this evening. I’m looking forward to letting someone else do the driving for a week. I was disappointed to learn that absolutely no photographs are allowed on the Hopi Reservation where we will be going tomorrow but at least I will be able to get some shots at the Heard museum before we head back north. Assuming, of course, we will be able to head back north given the forecast of snow in Flagstaff.

Bodie

OldCarBodie, California, one of the best ghost towns ever, has been on my photographic bucket list for at least 25 years. Today I finally got there and it didn’t disappoint. Well,  not too much. Unfortunately, it has gotten very popular and unfortunately the timing of my trip put me there on a Saturday so I didn’t exactly have the place to myself. 

The state park which is now Bodie doesn’t open until 9am. I was the secondOrgan car in line at 8:45. By the time I left around 11:30 the parking lot was full, there were about 10 cars lined up to pay the entrance fee and I must have passed at least 20 more coming up on my way down.  There was a photography workshop there getting in the way of many of my pictures but still I persevered and got some good shots in spite of it all.  I am thinking of giving it another go on the way back to catch the afternoon light and see if it is a little less crowded on a weekday.

SchoolI haven’t yet finished processing my pictures but I have enough to give you a taste of Bodie. Gold was first discovered here in 1859 but it wasn’t until the 1870s that a vein was found that made large scale mining profitable. Bodie boomed for about 10 to 15 years but by the 1890s the mines began to play out. A couple of fires put a few more nails in it’s coffin and by the 1940s the town was deserted and most of the land fell into the hands of the family that owned the bank.

In 1962 the family sold the land to California State Parks and they haveFoukeHouse assumed an attitude of what they call arrested decay. Things have been left as they were when the residents left town and the rangers repair but do not restore the buildings. The cold dry climate at over 8000 feet elevation helps to keep Bodie somewhat intact.

ColorLeaving Bodie to make my way to my next stop in Bishop I saw a lot of aspen, some past peak, some beautiful but surrounded by sagebrush so not very photogenic. I only found one patch worth stopping for and somehow the picture just doesn’t capture what I was seeing.  I also tried to stop at Mono lake put I didn’t have the right parking permit and I couldn’t find where to get one and since it was mid day I didn’t expect the photos would have been that great anyway.

On the Road Again

CourthouseAfter a long hard day of driving I ended up in Bridgeport, California without significant incident. Fortunately, I think this will be my longest day of driving the whole trip. After a short rest I took the M3 out for a walk to see what I could find. It turns out my motel is right next door to the Mono County courthouse whose architecture I would have to describe as Italianate meets Greek revival. It is a pretty building, in spite of its schizophrenic design. Aside from being the county seat Bridgeport’s main claim to fame is being the gateway to Bodie, California’s most famous ghost town. That is, after all, why I am here.PhoneBooth

But, getting back to my findings, I can’t say when I last saw a phone booth so I thought I had better capture this one for posterity. Though, I have to say I was first attracted by the chair. In all my phone booth experience I don’t recall finding such a useable chair.

After cruising the main street and finding an assortment ofHawk historic buildings, neon signs, and old mining equipment I headed down a side street where this hawk cruised into a tree right beside me. Yes, I did have to do some serious cropping as I only had a 18-150 zoom lens with me but I think he came out pretty well, all things considered.

I looped around to the history mWagonWheeluseum which, sadly was closed. But there was an assortment of mining and agricultural equipment from days gone by outside. None of the photos made the final cut for tonight though. I preferred this wagon wheel I found back at the motel.

One last cruise past the courthouse brought this fence to my attention. Yes, I am in a black and whitFencee mood tonight. Maybe it is just the subject matter. It turns out the courthouse plays bells every half hour. I hope this doesn’t go on all night as I need to get my beauty sleep before heading up to Bodie tomorrow.

Victoria Day 1

FlowersToday started with a visit to the Van Dusen Botanical Gardens which have been built on the site of a former golf course. I think it was the best garden we have seen yet. There were ornamental beds, a rose garden, a pond with a peninsula with species from the Southern Hemisphere, a vegetable garden highlighting the species that do well in this climate. We had a guided tour which had the advantage of imparting a lot of information but the disadvantage of not allowing enough time for creative photography. I did manage to get some good pictures, but I am jonesin’ to try out my artsy lenses and that requires a little more free time with the flowers. We still have three more days of gardens though so maybe I will manage it yet.

From the gardens we proceeded to the Ferry Terminal to catch the Ferry to FerryVictoria. We were a little late getting in but otherwise all went smoothly. On the bus ride from the Ferry terminal to the hotel we had a lecture on the history of Victoria. I don’t think I slept through too much of it.

BagpiperWe are now ensconced in the Royal Scot Hotel where we were welcomed by a real live bagpiper. My hotel room is larger than several apartments I have lived in over the years. The salmon dinner at the hotel tonight was very good but the service was a bit sketchy.

Vancouver – Day 3

RoseToday we set out with a guide from the Ecology Society to tour Stanley Park. Our first stop was the rose garden where we found most of the roses in decline but a few late bloomers looking pretty good. There were also ornamental beds lending color to the edges. Next we stopped at Prospect Point where there were more ornamentals and a nice view of the suspension bridge. Then we took a walk in the woods and learned all about hemlocks, Douglas fir and Western Red Cedar the three stalwarts of the Pacific Rainforest.

After dropping off our guide we proceeded to Chinatown to tour the Dr. Sun ChineseGardenYat-Sen Memorial Garden. The first traditional Chinese garden in North America. We learned about the jade pond and got to watch the feeding of the Koi which was interesting because the call them using a gong suspended just into the water. The fish apparently can feel the vibration and have come to associate it with being fed.

ChinesePharmacyThen we had lunch at a Chinese restaurant which was a multi course meal served family style which featured eggrolls, pot stickers, fried rice, vegetables, shrimp with vegetables, sweet and sour pork (I think) and beef with broccoli. We then walked it off with a tour that took us to gas town. We had to circumvent some area in order to avoid the homeless and drug addicts. It seems that most of the younger generation Chinese have moved out to Richmond and the area is in decline.steamclock

Arriving in Gastown which is the heart of old Vancouver where the city got its start, we had to contend with the cruise ship hoards and I was ready to go back to the hotel though on another day without so much gear I would have liked to wander the streets and shop. Without the cruise ship hoards that is. We too the bus back to the hotel and I collapsed on my bed for an hour. I registered 10,000 steps on my fitbit without leaving my room.

Vancouver – Day 2

Glass_abstractOur first full day of touring started with a bus ride around town with a guide to tell us all about the history and culture of the city. One thing we learned is that the reason they build so much with glass and steel is that it is more flexible during an earthquake than concrete or brick. We also learned that there is a serious housing crisis in the city as real estate prices keep spiraling upward. A tiny condominium in one of those high rises can go for upwards of a million dollars. People are being priced out of their own homes because the appraised value is so high they can’t afford the property taxes. Living in paradise has its price it seems.

Our first stop took us to Queen Elizabeth Park which as the highest point in ViewQEPthe city has the best views. It also features gardens planted in old quarry beds and a geodesic domed conservatory. There is also a plaza with a huge fountain surrounded by spaces for Tai Chi clubs to practice.

Next, we went to lunch at a place called Brown’s Social House where we were served salads and burgers. Then it was off to meet up with our guide for a tour of the Nitobe Japanese Gardens on the campus of the University of British Columbia. Dr. Nitobe Nitobesounded like quite a guy, well ahead of his time in thinking globally and creating a culture of peace.  Having just been to Japan I was a little underwhelmed with the garden, though I am sure it makes for a wonderful retreat from the hectic city. My photos all came out just looking green so I decided a black and white treatment was the way to go.TotemPoles

We finished the afternoon at the Museum of Anthropology which has an extensive collection of First Nations art, including many totem poles and potlatch serving dishes. There is also a vast collection of artifacts from indigenous peoples around the world.

We had about an hour to rest back at the hotel before walking around the block to a Brazilian steakhouse where roasted meats were brought to the table and sliced off for us.

Vancouver – First Impresssions

SkylineThis is going to be short because it is late and I am tired.  I spent my first half day in Vancouver, B.C. today and so far I am impressed. Everyone is talking about the heat wave. Gee, I think it might have gotten up to 80 today. But the natives were out enjoying it and the tourists are here in droves.

Vancouver is a city of high rise buildings surrounded by water. Beyond theKeyLimePie water there are mountains in all directions. It is a city of vast open spaces and miles of bicycle and walking trails. It is a city of art and architecture. And it is a city that celebrates diversity and embraces its heritage. It is a city where food is celebrated from farm to table to around the world.

CanadaPlaceI took a Hop on, Hop off tour today but I only hopped off once for about an hour to explore Granville Island and eat lunch. It still took four hours just to ride around the city on the bus. To visit all the museums and explore all the neighborhoods would take, oh, I don’t know, maybe a year. I’m looking forward to learning more over the next few days.

Garden Tour – Day 1 – The Oregon Garden

ORGardenI set out today on my next adventure, a garden tour of Vancouver and Victoria. So far, I have only made it to Portland. I fly to Canada tomorrow to meet up with the Road Scholars. But in the meantime I wanted to kick things off right with a visit to the Oregon Garden. It has been on my radar for awhile but it is 12 miles off the interstate to the east of Salem, so this is the first time I took the time to make the trek.

FrogwAnd it was well worth the time and effort. There are 20 specialty gardens packed into 80 acres on the outskirts of Silverton. I’m glad they have good signage to get you there or I would surely have gotten lost. I’m glad I have a good map or I would surely have never found my way back to the Interstate. My first stop was the water garden and one of the employees pointed out a frog pretending to be invisible. I’m always looking for frogs to photograph and rarely find them so this certainly got me off on the right foot.WLw

But it was HOT. The sweat was pouring off me but since I had made the effort to get there and paid the $12.00 to get in I felt I had to give it my best shot. So I shot some water lilies.  I strolled through the Northwest Garden. I sought shade at every opportunity. Then I shot this beautiful flower that I learned from the sign was a Rose of Sharon.RoseofSharon

I headed over to the rose garden but it was closed so I couldn’t go in. I swapped out lenses for the Sweet 50 and had some fun with blanket flowers. Then I went looking for the Medicinal Garden and sBSE_LBS50aw a bunch of flowers in bloom including these Black eyed Susan’s. It was only after I headed into the Home demonstration Gardens that I realized I had just been photographing in the Medicinal Garden.

It seems that the Oregon Garden opened in 2001. Which surprised me because I was actually living in Oregon in 2001. Though I guess being in the depths of my mid-life crisis it escaped my attention.

Nevertheless, now that I know the way, sort of, I will definitely come back. If only to visit Oregon’s only Frank Lloyd Wright house, thDahliae Gordon House, which was moved to the Oregon Garden property in order to save it from destruction. When I come again though, it will be in the spring or fall. the Dahlias should be lovely in September. Though I did find a few blooming in July. 

Learn more about the Oregon Garden at http://www.oregongarden.org/

 

Japan – Day 15 – Nijo Castle and Tie Dying

OurNinjoGate final day in Kyoto started with a visit to Nijo Castle, the last remaining home of a Shogun. It was a very impressive complex with gold leaf on the gates and three-dimensional wood carvings. There were paintings on gold leaf covered screens with tigers in rooms where power was to be commuNinjo_Detailnicated and peonies in the more peaceful areas. The floors were intentionally designed to squeak when walked upon so no one could sneak up on the Shogun.

After viewing the Castle and the grounds we walked across the street to the ANA Crowne Plaza for a buffet lunch which included everything from tempura to pizza. It was also popular with school groups.

ScarvesWe then walked a few blocks to the Shibori museum where we had a lesson in making dyed silk scarves. We got to keep our creations to take home and most everyone wore them to dinner. We also saw a video on the shibori technique which consists of tying off hundreds of little bits of fabric and then dying it to create beautiful patterns. It is painstaking work Shiboriand can take up to two years to make a kimono which might then sell for $15,000. Some of our ladies had an opportunity to try on the kimonos.

For our fairwell dinner we walked to a nearby restaurant where we had a private room. We started with a round of beer as is the Japanese custom, but then the sake began flowing freely. Our meal consisted of a tofu salad, sashimi, assorted vegetables, tempura, grilled chicken, salmon and rice sushi, and strawberry ice cream. Every dish came out separately and we had new small plates for each one. Very Japanese.

Today we head home. Some of our group have already left for the airport. I have about three more hours before the shuttle. Then a few more hours to wait for my 4:50 flight which in spite of taking 10 hours, gets me in several hours earlier than I started due to recovering the day we lost on the way here.