Signature City Los Angeles – Day 1 Downtown

Back on the road again. I just wanted to go someplace warm in the winter. I decided it was high time I saw the highlights of Los Angeles, the second largest city in our country and one of our west coast gems. So far the weather had not disappointed, nor has the Road Scholar tour.

We started the day with a walking tour of downtown. I found the reflections of skyscrapers on skyscraper most fascinating.

Reflections  Reflections2

Next we stopped by the Disney concert hall. Truely an architectural work of art.

DisneyCenter

We then hopped on a motor coach (don’t say the b word) to visit the Cathedral or our Lady of the Angels. I was expecting a Spanish style building from the 18th century but was very surprised at the modern structure we found instead. This depiction of Mary may give you a flavor of the building and grounds. She presides over the entrance to the Cathedral.

Mary

After lunch at Philippes, the reputed home of the French dip sandwich we stopped by the impressive art deco Union Station and briefly visited the heart of the old Hispanic Pueblo before moving on to the the California Science Center to see the space shuttle Endeavor in it’s retirement home.

Endeavor

Our full and interesting day was capped off with a delicious dinner at the Border Grill, just two blocks form our home base at the L.A. Grand Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles.

Narbonne and the Pont du Gard

Doorway_NarbonneOn leaving Carcasonne we did not have too far to travel to our next stop in Narbonne, a pleasant village with Roman roots, an unfinished Cathedral, and a thriving indoor marketplace.

Our first stop with our local guide was at the Roman Horreum. An underground warehouse or storage facility dating to the 1st century A.D when Narbonne served as a major port and capital of the largest Roman Povince in Gaul. The caves were interesting but not very photogenic.

CathedralNext we made our way across the street to a Cathedral which was begun in 1272 and never completed so that it is lacking the impressive facade of most such structures but still sports flying buttresses and turrets, not to mention some PipeOrgannewly cleaned and restored gargoyles. An organ dating from the 18th century is also an impressive feature.

Our final stop before lunch at a nearby restaurant was the indoor farmers market which featured everything from fish to pastries to wine to fresh fruit. One stall even specialized in Olives.Olives

After lunch we reboarded the bus to continue on our way to Arles in Provence. But first a stop at the Pont du Gard, the famous Roman Aqueduct near Nimes. It is hard to image the effort involved in building such a massive structure without benefit of modern machines and equipment. The aqueduct is believed to have served for 400 to 500 years. It continues to stand tall at 160 feet as the highest structure of it’s kind built by the Romans. If you look carefully you can see the people on the bridge and on the ground to get an idea of the scale.PontduGard

Mont Saint Michel

MontStMichel

Certainly one of the highlights of the trip was our visit to Mont St. Michel. An abbey built on a Island beginning in the 11th century it is quite a mix of medieval architecture. It is also quite a climb to get up to the abbey. Like all unique historic places it is also overrun with tourists, though I have to say they do a pretty good job of managing the flow of visitors.

Ceiling

The ornately carved cloister, below, was especially spectacular. I just wish I had an opportunity to photograph it without all the people milling around.

Cloister

I was especially taken with this column decorated with a fleur de lis. I almost walked by the small statue of a knight in a niche on the way down the mountain but then I saw the swagger caught by the sculptor and had to take his picture.

FleurdeLis

 

Knight

 

Japan – Day 14 – Shrines and Temples

HandicraftsToday’s excursion started with a visit to a museum of traditional Japanese handicrafts. As usual no photos were allowed. Except in one little corner where they had set up a place to do selfies. It was a very nicely done museum with lots of videos of crafters at work. We could have spent a lot more time there and a lot more money in the lovely museum shop.

Next, we headed up the street to the Heian Shrine which, despite its name, HeianShrinedoes not date back to the Heian period but honors the history of Kyoto and was built in 1895 to bolster the city’s morale and economy after the capital and emperor’s residence was permanently moved to Tokyo. In case I haven’t already mentioned it, a shrine is a Shinto place of worship, while a temple is a Buddhist place of worship. At one time the two were rather intertwined but during the Meiji period of modernization it was decided that Japan need a state religion and Shinto was split off to fill that role. It has been argued that Shinto isn’t really a religion at all but more a system of beliefs to guide one through life.

From the Shrine we taxied to lunch where we took over an entire small restaurant and were served rice curry. This is a popular dish in Japan but was adopted from the British Navy many years ago.  After lunch we walked up the sGinkakujitreet to Ginkakuji, also known as the Silver Pavilion. It was intended to be covered in silver but due to economics and/or political changes, it never was. It started as a summer home for the Shogun but was converted to a temple after his death.

We were turned loose after the temple to find our way back. I opted to walk PhilosophersWalkthe Philosopher’s walk which connects several temples. Of course, there was not time to visit them all so I just walked the path and visited the first temple at the end called Eikando Zenrin-Ji. It had a beautiful garden and was not overrun with tourists like some of the other places we have visited. So, I was able to take my time walking around and photographing.

EikandoWhen I was done I just had to show my hotel card to a taxi driver and he took me home without incident. For dinner we had some local Japanese guests to talk to about their lives. At our table we had a young college student who had lived in the United States for a few years when her father, who works for Mitsubishi had an assignment near Chicago. It was an Italian restaurant and we were served appetizers, salad, pizza, spaghetti (with a definite Japanese flair) and a breaded chicken filet.

Japan – Day 9 – Kanazawa

This day marked the midway point of the trip. The rain had really set in inNoh_masks earnest. But we piled into 8 taxis for the transit to our destination. First stop was a brief look at the 21st century art museum, a round structure with pant legs and sneakers gracing its support columns. There was also an interesting elevator on a hydraulic lift. However, we were really just killing time until the Noh museum opened. Here we got a look at some masks and robes. All very elaborate, as well as a model of a typical Noh theater. We will be hLanternaving a full-blown lecture and demonstration of Noh later on, so I won’t go into details just now.

From the museum we walked across the street into the Kenrokuen Garden which is said to be one of the top three gardens in Japan. I don’t know who got to decide or what the other two are. But it was gorgeous, even in the rain and the cherry blossoms were very near peak, though rain and wind were taking their toll. We strolled to the palace that had been built in 1863 for the daimyo’s mother. Sadly, we could not take photos inside. In addition to seeing the architecture, sliding screens, tatami mats, etc. There were displays around the edges of everyday items used in the household.

After putting our shoes back on, and oh, by the way, the floors were very cold, you could see why they wore those thick tabi socks and layers of kimono. But after putting our shoes back on we proceeded to stroll throughBlossomAbstract the park at a pace more leisurely than befitted the weather. Once while waiting for people to use the restroom I decided to get creative with the cherry blossoms and umbrellas. When we came to a decision point about whether to grab a taxi back to the hotel or stroll on to the fish market I decided what I wanted most was not to be miserable anymore, so I had to take a pass on the market.

After drying off for a half hour I thought I would go over to the train station for lunch (we were on our own for the rest of the day). But when I put my jacket on it was still wet and I thought, “you know, there are about four restaurants in this hotel.” So, I headed down to the Chinese restaurant where I had a lovely lunch featuring the usual Japanese starters, some egg flower soup, my entrée of sweet and sour pork, desert and coffee.

The sun finally peaked out around 2 o’clock so I decided to see if I could find the CemeteryBuddhist Temple I had spotted on the map, not too far from the hotel. So, I walked the few blocks in the right direction it turned out and found not only the temple but this scenic graveyard. I hesitated to go in because I didn’t really know the protocol and by this time the clouds were gathering again and I was regretting the three glasses of tea I had at lunch. So, I started hurrying back to the hotel. Just as the thunder roared, a downpour started, and I thought I was going to pee my pants there in front of me appeared a lone porta-john. I ducked in and took care of business and by the time I came out the downpour had tapered off. We’ve been talking about unemployed angels at church lately, I guess one must have been watching out for me.

I met up with a couple of my compatriots for dinner. We walked across the street to a shopping mall which had restaurants downstairs. In spite of the language barrier we managed to order food and drink. I had tempura which included some crab and one of the biggest shrimps I’ve ever seen so it was well worth the 880 yen.Iris

Haiku:

Fresh shoots of Iris

Surrounded by white petals

Transitions of spring.

Cuba Day 4 – El Cobre

Day 4 started out with the same breakfast I have had for the past two days; an omelet with onion, cheese, lots of fruit, juice and tea. Then I packed up and moved to a new casa which turned out to be 2 ½ blocks from the old casa. The room was a little nicer and bigger, the stairs a little wider but just as steep. You may be wondering why we had to change casas. Well, originally, we were supposed to be moving on to Baracoa on this day but hurricane Matthew threw a wrench into those plans. So, the idea was we would stay at a hotel in Santiago the first three days then move to casas. Because the second set of casas had been prearranged and paid for before we lost the hotel rooms we had no choice but to move. I mentioned to someone at my first house that we had been meant to go to Baracoa and he said “Oh, Baracoa is so beautiful, you must go, the hotel is fine now.” But alas, it was out of my hands.

Once settled in our new casa we piled into the van (a 12 passenger Mercedes Benz if you really want to know) and hunted down the cigar factory we were to tour only to be told that no pictures were allowed. But we took the nickel tour anyway and learned how cigars are made. The nice thing about cigars is that they are pure tobacco with no additives, unlike cigarettes. The whole leaves are sorted then pressed together in a round press, then a tobacco leaf wrapper is added to make it look pretty. It seems to be a very labor intensive process, at least here.

BasilicaNext, we went to a town called El Cobre, the name of which has something to do with its history as a copper mining center. But its real claim to fame is a cathedral that is dedicated to the patron saint of Cuba and a popular site for pilgrims with and without religion. The full name of the chuSancturaryrch reflects its Spanish heritage: The Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Caridad del Cobre. The church was not that impressive (austere says my
 guide book) thoug I did manage to eke out a few interesting images. The community was down a steep flight of steps that I didn’t want to have to Crosscome back up and it  seemed to consist of a lot of vendors intent on selling flowers and trinkets to tourists so I don’t know that the photography would have been very satisfying. And, as there was no place to eat lunch we soon headed back to Santiago.

This would be a good place to say a word about religion in Cuba. Because Candlesone cannot be a member of the communist party and be an active participant in religion there are not a lot of overt signs of religion as might be experienced in other former Spanish colonies. On the other hand I did not get the sense that religion was banned outright either. Churches remain as churches and there were certainly plenty of pilgrims at the Basilica. Papal visits have been allowed and I spotted a nun reading on the balcony of a building nearby. Our driver was the son of a Seventh Day Adventist minister and he owns his own van and tour company as well as a farm so having a religious background does not seem to be a deterrent to success in the new relaxed economy. I also understand from my reading that vestiges of African religious practices brought in with slavery are still alive and well in Cuba.

Lunch turned out to be more grilled chicken at Dona Martha Restaurante. Our Spanish speaking guides were not too helpful at explaining the menu choices so I sort of went with what I recognized, “grille” means grilled, this much I know and pollo of course is chicken. Lately all meals have been served with rice and sweet potatoes. So I am having no trouble sticking to my high protein, low carb diet.

Art_GalleryAfter lunch we were turned loose to explore the local neighborhood but the directions for the meeting point and time were not clear. We found an art gallery just around the corner. I’m always hesitant to photograph other peoples art and call it my own but I tried to transform this piece enough to at least make it a shared effort.

I knew I should stay with the group but they were moving so slowly I decided to head out on my own. How hard could three blocks further on be? Well, pretty hard when the cross street does not go through. Of course, when I got to the place I thought I was supposed to be at the time I thought we were supposed to meet there was no one there. I waited fifteen minutes then decided to head back to the restaurant and see if I could find anyone. I was about to panic (OK, cry)Shadow when I finally spied the van, everyone aboard except our guide who was out looking for me. I still don’t know where they met up or how long they were looking for me. Of course, I had money, I knew where I lived and taxis were abundant so I don’t think it would have been a complete disaster even if we hadn’t connected. On the upside, I got some of my most interesting images during this episode.

FishermanWe then headed back to the waterfront for sunset. A few nice silhouettes and color on the water pictures. Well, that might be an understatement. I kind of had a field day with the sunset. And finally, back to the casas for a rest before regathering at one of the casas for a “family dinner” which ended up costing more than any of our Pilingsrestaurant meals so far. Once again I had grilled chicken, not much choice this time, accompanied by rice and sweet potato fries. I went off the reservation and ate some of the salad because the guide and the doctor sitting next to me thought it might be OK. Lionel, our local guide, brought a bottle of rum which he said was the best you could get in Cuba. I enjoyed it but after two beers did not feel like indulging too much.

Glendalough

Today’s field trip really put the icing on the cake for me.  I have been yearning to have a chance to wander around a cemetery and photograph old headstones and celtic crosses and today my wish came true. Glendalough is an ancient monastic site that was active from the 7th to 12th century. That’s 500 years folks.

St_KevinsHere is a picture of St. Kevin’s Church which was the main place of worship prior to the building of the Cathedral in the 12th century. And here is another view from closer in. The cemetery does not seem to be as old as the monastic buildings as many of the graves date from the 19th century and some further out are even from tSt_Kevins_withcrosshe 20th. One of the challenges today was the flat white sky.

Round_towerThe round tower was a bell tower and landmark to help visitors find the place. Occasionally when marauding Vikings struck it was also used to protect supplies but not, as was earlier thought, the people of the community.

A word about the Celtic cross. We had an archaeologist talk to us early on and express the opinion that the term was a misnomer as the Celtic period in Ireland dated from about 500 BC to 400 AD and the Celts were pagan so had nothing to do with the crosses which generally date from the 8th to 12th century. However, it has also been indicated that the whole idea of the Celtic Cross was to make Christianity less threatening to the pagans by adding a Crosscircle representing the sun to the Christian cross.

In any case, I have a fascination with Celtic crosses and Celtic inspired design and the notion of a brand of Christianity that is closer to nature and less dominated by imperialism. Some of the older “High” crosses date to the 8th century and may have been used by the monastics to mark their boundaries. But just because they were not cast in stone until then does not mean they did not exist until then. There apparently was a renaissance in the 19th and 20th century as the cross was embraced anew and became popular for grave markers.

I now have over 1800 images in my Ireland file so if you have been following along you know that you have seen only the tip of the iceberg so far. Not that they are all worthy of further consideration but there certainly will be more to come once I have time to sit down and work with the images. So look for at least one more posting on Ireland but not before the middle of next week as I have to travel home, recover from jet lag, and celebrate my birthday before I can finish editing my pictures.

Killarney and Blarney Castle

StMarysIt was another lovely day to be in Ireland today. We had free time in the town of Killarney this morning so I set out to see St. Mary’s Cathedral. It is very impressive with lotsDawn2Dusk of stained glass and ornate mosaics. I was particularly impressed, though, by this modern stained glass
window entitled Dawn to Dusk. At the bottom it says “Why is there anything, instead of nothing?” I’m a little surprised the Catholic hierarchy let that one slip by.

OrganThen I swung back around to the Anglican Church which was nearer our hotel but not yet open when I set out. It was smaller but beautifully decorated inside. I had never before seen a painted pipe organ and this stained glass window was more to my taste than some of the more biblical ones.Window

After checking out a few shops and buying a few souvenirs I was all walked out but still had an hour before the bus was due to leave so I indulged in a horse cart ride through the National Park parts of which were donated to KillarneyNP2the country on stipulation that only foot, bicycle or horse traffic would be allowed. I got one last look at the McGuillycuddy’s reeks, the highest mountain range in Ireland at around 3500 feet.

On the road again we proceeded through county Tipperary, seeing more Blarneyhorses and dairy cattle than sheep now, to County Cork and on to Cork City with a stop at Blarney Castle. Even if the cruise ship had not just dumped thousands of people on the place I would not have stood in line to bend over backward and kiss a rock. It’s a little too late for the gift of gab to do me any good anyway.

Armagh and the Cathedrals of Saint Patrick

We started the day today with a lecture which tried to stuff the history of Ireland into one hour. I gained more insight into the troubles and the Scotch Irish immigration to the U.S.  Our lecturer agreed with my driver Seamus that Northern Ireland would probably someday join the Republic “but not in my lifetime” he said. He pointed out that the Catholic population of Northern Ireland is outpacing the Protestant and eventually they will become a majority allowing for a referendum to leave Great Britain and join the Republic of Ireland. Meanwhile, everyone seems shocked and and confused about how Brexit might complicate already strained relations.

Then we traveled about an hour south of Belfast to Armagh which is the home of not one but two cathedrals dedicated to St. Patrick. One is Catholic, the other Anglican (or Church of Ireland as they like to say here).

Exterior_CatholicWell it was raining a little heavily when we got to the first church (the Catholic one) so my outdoor pictures leave something to be desired but I tried.

This cathedral was built between 1840 and 1870 and is very ornate inside with many stained glass windows and mosaic tiles on all of the floors and walls.Stained_Glasswall_StPats

 

Floor_StPats

 

The next church was much older, dating from 1268, witExterior_Anglicanh updates and changes since then of course. This church was less ornate but had stained glass that was more to my taste and seemed a little brighter. There was also a lot more statuary in this one, including this reader that Stained_Glass2I especially liked.Reader

 

 

 

 

Upon returning to Belfast we had some free time. So I went shopping, having heard nothing from the airlines about my bag. I scored a new bag, two pair of jeans, a sweater some shirts and underwear, and an electrical adaptor so I can keep taking pictures and posting blogs. What won’t be so easy to replace are the charging cords for my phone, Nook, and Fitbit. There is probably a message in here about what we really can live without.

I also had my first Guiness this evening, well and my second too. And with that it is time to bid you good night.