And That’s a Wrap

Today for my final day in Great Smokey Mountains National Park I went searching for waterfalls. I found a couple. There were more in the area of the Juney Whank falls but after hiking a quarter mile up hill and then back down I was hot and tired of carrying all my camera gear so decided to let the others go. 

JuneyWhank1

Base of Juney Whank Falls

 

JuneyWhankFalls

Juney Whank Falls

But after a rest I headed up to Mingo Falls which is technically outside the park and on Cherokee lands but still beautiful in spite of a very long steep set of stairs to get there. I only wish some people would teach their children to be quiet and listen to the beautiful sounds of nature. Mingo Falls is said to be one of the highest in Southern Appalachia.

MingoFalls

Mingo Falls

After a final stop at the Oconaluftee visitor’s center to pick up some music to put into a slide show I went back to my room for a little rest. Then I headed to the Qualla Arts Center to view some Native American crafts. I liked the baskets but they were too big to take home. I had to skip the Cherokee museum this time as I have been told it takes all day to do it justice and I didn’t want to pay $12.00 to just breeze through. 

After consulting Trip Advisor I had concluded that the only good restaurants in this area were in the casino so I decided to head over there and check it out. Oh, my, this place makes Seven Feathers look like amateur hour. I sat down thinking to make a donation to the tribe and immediately won $75.00. I yo-yoed for a while but ended the day with $40 more in my pocket than I started with and a nice meal to boot.

Just to round out my trip I decided to go back up to Mingus Mill this evening and try to get the picture I had to give up on when we were there the other day. Not only did I have the place to myself, I had the added bonus of better light on the mill and a slow enough shutter speed to get some nice flow in the flume. 

MingusMill

Mingus Mill

And that, my friends, is the end of my Great Smokey Mountains Adventure. I saw most of the park accessible by road and got to know much of it’s history. I thought this might be enough to scratch my itch to see the Smokies but I don’t know, I may have to come back again to see it in the fall.

Check back around the end of August when I will be reporting my next adventure which will be in France.

 

 

A Study in Monochrome

So, the promised rain finally arrived. It was only drizzling a little when I went out for breakfast, so I thought I could risk the one block walk to the Log Cabin Pancake House. But when I came out of the restaurant to walk back it was a genuine certifiable gully washer. Fortunately, the restaurant had a front porch complete with rocking chairs, so I was able to sit and wait for it to settle down to a nice gentle downpour.

Back at the condo I read through all the brochures once more trying to decide what I am going to do tomorrow if it is still raining. I have to check out from here at 10am and can’t get into the next place until 4pm. I’m hoping the weather won’t be too bad so I can visit the folk art center near Ashville and take in a little more of the Blue Ridge Parkway. If worse comes to worst maybe they will take pity on me at the Lambuth Inn and let me check in early or at least sit in their lobby and stay dry.

The rain stopped for awhile just after noon so I decided if I was going to have lunch (though I was still pretty full from breakfast), it would have to be then. So, I walked down to the main drag, about 4 or 5 blocks from my condo. I walked around long enough to discern that downtown Gatlinburg is just as disgusting and blatantly out to reap the tourist dollar as I had thought. And, if you were worried about Paula Deen being fired from the Food network, don’t be, she has her fingers in numerous pies around here. At least two restaurants I’ve heard about, a theme park on Lumberjacks, and yes, the Paula Deen store in downtown Gatlinburg, “It’s all about butter.” I’m not sure if the lady herself is the tycoon behind all this or she is just selling her name.

In any case, I stopped by the local Walgreens (I still haven’t found a supermarket) and picked up some more emergency food supplies and a new pair of sunglasses (ever the optimist)  since I left mine at home (hey, it was dark when I arrived at the airport).  Then I went looking for a restaurant where I could get something besides pizza, a burger, fudge or caramel corn. I spotted TGI Friday’s and decided that would have to do as it was starting to rain again.  Well, you know, the government has ruined the experience of eating at chain restaurants because they are now forced to list calories for everything. I finally opted for French Onion soup and a house salad because it was the only thing I could find under 1000 calories. And after the breakfast of blueberry crepes and a side of bacon… I guess dinner isn’t even an option.

So, by the time I was done with lunch the rain had set in in earnest again and I was drenched by the time I got back to the condo. We Oregonians, of course spurn umbrellas, especially when travelling on airplanes. I started a new book while I dried out then sat down at the computer and started playing with some of the images from the past few days. I found myself turning to monochrome a lot so Here at last are some pictures for you to enjoy, a study in monochrome. The rain has stopped again, by the way, and it doesn’t look too bad on the radar. But, after a long debate with myself, I decided to forego the possibility of rainbows and stay cozy and dry and see what tomorrow brings. I think there is an evening program with the Road Scholars tomorrow so I may or may not get around to blogging. But don’t worry, I’ll be back.

A Study in Monochrome – Great Smokey Mountain National Park and vicinity

TreeinFog

Tree in Fog

 

 

RiverRock

River Rock

 

Hayrake

Hayrake

 

Fern

Fern

 

ReaganHouse

Reagan House

 

Bodie

OldCarBodie, California, one of the best ghost towns ever, has been on my photographic bucket list for at least 25 years. Today I finally got there and it didn’t disappoint. Well,  not too much. Unfortunately, it has gotten very popular and unfortunately the timing of my trip put me there on a Saturday so I didn’t exactly have the place to myself. 

The state park which is now Bodie doesn’t open until 9am. I was the secondOrgan car in line at 8:45. By the time I left around 11:30 the parking lot was full, there were about 10 cars lined up to pay the entrance fee and I must have passed at least 20 more coming up on my way down.  There was a photography workshop there getting in the way of many of my pictures but still I persevered and got some good shots in spite of it all.  I am thinking of giving it another go on the way back to catch the afternoon light and see if it is a little less crowded on a weekday.

SchoolI haven’t yet finished processing my pictures but I have enough to give you a taste of Bodie. Gold was first discovered here in 1859 but it wasn’t until the 1870s that a vein was found that made large scale mining profitable. Bodie boomed for about 10 to 15 years but by the 1890s the mines began to play out. A couple of fires put a few more nails in it’s coffin and by the 1940s the town was deserted and most of the land fell into the hands of the family that owned the bank.

In 1962 the family sold the land to California State Parks and they haveFoukeHouse assumed an attitude of what they call arrested decay. Things have been left as they were when the residents left town and the rangers repair but do not restore the buildings. The cold dry climate at over 8000 feet elevation helps to keep Bodie somewhat intact.

ColorLeaving Bodie to make my way to my next stop in Bishop I saw a lot of aspen, some past peak, some beautiful but surrounded by sagebrush so not very photogenic. I only found one patch worth stopping for and somehow the picture just doesn’t capture what I was seeing.  I also tried to stop at Mono lake put I didn’t have the right parking permit and I couldn’t find where to get one and since it was mid day I didn’t expect the photos would have been that great anyway.

On the Road Again

CourthouseAfter a long hard day of driving I ended up in Bridgeport, California without significant incident. Fortunately, I think this will be my longest day of driving the whole trip. After a short rest I took the M3 out for a walk to see what I could find. It turns out my motel is right next door to the Mono County courthouse whose architecture I would have to describe as Italianate meets Greek revival. It is a pretty building, in spite of its schizophrenic design. Aside from being the county seat Bridgeport’s main claim to fame is being the gateway to Bodie, California’s most famous ghost town. That is, after all, why I am here.PhoneBooth

But, getting back to my findings, I can’t say when I last saw a phone booth so I thought I had better capture this one for posterity. Though, I have to say I was first attracted by the chair. In all my phone booth experience I don’t recall finding such a useable chair.

After cruising the main street and finding an assortment ofHawk historic buildings, neon signs, and old mining equipment I headed down a side street where this hawk cruised into a tree right beside me. Yes, I did have to do some serious cropping as I only had a 18-150 zoom lens with me but I think he came out pretty well, all things considered.

I looped around to the history mWagonWheeluseum which, sadly was closed. But there was an assortment of mining and agricultural equipment from days gone by outside. None of the photos made the final cut for tonight though. I preferred this wagon wheel I found back at the motel.

One last cruise past the courthouse brought this fence to my attention. Yes, I am in a black and whitFencee mood tonight. Maybe it is just the subject matter. It turns out the courthouse plays bells every half hour. I hope this doesn’t go on all night as I need to get my beauty sleep before heading up to Bodie tomorrow.

Vancouver – Day 2

Glass_abstractOur first full day of touring started with a bus ride around town with a guide to tell us all about the history and culture of the city. One thing we learned is that the reason they build so much with glass and steel is that it is more flexible during an earthquake than concrete or brick. We also learned that there is a serious housing crisis in the city as real estate prices keep spiraling upward. A tiny condominium in one of those high rises can go for upwards of a million dollars. People are being priced out of their own homes because the appraised value is so high they can’t afford the property taxes. Living in paradise has its price it seems.

Our first stop took us to Queen Elizabeth Park which as the highest point in ViewQEPthe city has the best views. It also features gardens planted in old quarry beds and a geodesic domed conservatory. There is also a plaza with a huge fountain surrounded by spaces for Tai Chi clubs to practice.

Next, we went to lunch at a place called Brown’s Social House where we were served salads and burgers. Then it was off to meet up with our guide for a tour of the Nitobe Japanese Gardens on the campus of the University of British Columbia. Dr. Nitobe Nitobesounded like quite a guy, well ahead of his time in thinking globally and creating a culture of peace.  Having just been to Japan I was a little underwhelmed with the garden, though I am sure it makes for a wonderful retreat from the hectic city. My photos all came out just looking green so I decided a black and white treatment was the way to go.TotemPoles

We finished the afternoon at the Museum of Anthropology which has an extensive collection of First Nations art, including many totem poles and potlatch serving dishes. There is also a vast collection of artifacts from indigenous peoples around the world.

We had about an hour to rest back at the hotel before walking around the block to a Brazilian steakhouse where roasted meats were brought to the table and sliced off for us.

Japan – Day 15 – Nijo Castle and Tie Dying

OurNinjoGate final day in Kyoto started with a visit to Nijo Castle, the last remaining home of a Shogun. It was a very impressive complex with gold leaf on the gates and three-dimensional wood carvings. There were paintings on gold leaf covered screens with tigers in rooms where power was to be commuNinjo_Detailnicated and peonies in the more peaceful areas. The floors were intentionally designed to squeak when walked upon so no one could sneak up on the Shogun.

After viewing the Castle and the grounds we walked across the street to the ANA Crowne Plaza for a buffet lunch which included everything from tempura to pizza. It was also popular with school groups.

ScarvesWe then walked a few blocks to the Shibori museum where we had a lesson in making dyed silk scarves. We got to keep our creations to take home and most everyone wore them to dinner. We also saw a video on the shibori technique which consists of tying off hundreds of little bits of fabric and then dying it to create beautiful patterns. It is painstaking work Shiboriand can take up to two years to make a kimono which might then sell for $15,000. Some of our ladies had an opportunity to try on the kimonos.

For our fairwell dinner we walked to a nearby restaurant where we had a private room. We started with a round of beer as is the Japanese custom, but then the sake began flowing freely. Our meal consisted of a tofu salad, sashimi, assorted vegetables, tempura, grilled chicken, salmon and rice sushi, and strawberry ice cream. Every dish came out separately and we had new small plates for each one. Very Japanese.

Today we head home. Some of our group have already left for the airport. I have about three more hours before the shuttle. Then a few more hours to wait for my 4:50 flight which in spite of taking 10 hours, gets me in several hours earlier than I started due to recovering the day we lost on the way here.

Japan – Day 14 – Shrines and Temples

HandicraftsToday’s excursion started with a visit to a museum of traditional Japanese handicrafts. As usual no photos were allowed. Except in one little corner where they had set up a place to do selfies. It was a very nicely done museum with lots of videos of crafters at work. We could have spent a lot more time there and a lot more money in the lovely museum shop.

Next, we headed up the street to the Heian Shrine which, despite its name, HeianShrinedoes not date back to the Heian period but honors the history of Kyoto and was built in 1895 to bolster the city’s morale and economy after the capital and emperor’s residence was permanently moved to Tokyo. In case I haven’t already mentioned it, a shrine is a Shinto place of worship, while a temple is a Buddhist place of worship. At one time the two were rather intertwined but during the Meiji period of modernization it was decided that Japan need a state religion and Shinto was split off to fill that role. It has been argued that Shinto isn’t really a religion at all but more a system of beliefs to guide one through life.

From the Shrine we taxied to lunch where we took over an entire small restaurant and were served rice curry. This is a popular dish in Japan but was adopted from the British Navy many years ago.  After lunch we walked up the sGinkakujitreet to Ginkakuji, also known as the Silver Pavilion. It was intended to be covered in silver but due to economics and/or political changes, it never was. It started as a summer home for the Shogun but was converted to a temple after his death.

We were turned loose after the temple to find our way back. I opted to walk PhilosophersWalkthe Philosopher’s walk which connects several temples. Of course, there was not time to visit them all so I just walked the path and visited the first temple at the end called Eikando Zenrin-Ji. It had a beautiful garden and was not overrun with tourists like some of the other places we have visited. So, I was able to take my time walking around and photographing.

EikandoWhen I was done I just had to show my hotel card to a taxi driver and he took me home without incident. For dinner we had some local Japanese guests to talk to about their lives. At our table we had a young college student who had lived in the United States for a few years when her father, who works for Mitsubishi had an assignment near Chicago. It was an Italian restaurant and we were served appetizers, salad, pizza, spaghetti (with a definite Japanese flair) and a breaded chicken filet.

Japan – Day 13 – Tea and Temples

TeaMasterOur first stop today was at the home of a tea master who demonstrated the preparation of tea and explained the tea ceremony which would normally take four hours. Ironically, Michael is not Japanese but Swiss. He became interested in the tea ceremony through martial arts and now lives in Japan and provides lessons in both.

Next, we visited Daitoku-ji, a complex of templesBuddha where we learned something about the man who invented the tea ceremony, or at least formalized the ritual, Sen No Rikyu. He is also credited with developing the concept of wabi-sabi, beauty through simplicity, a concept I can definitely get behind. We had an opportunity to view some gardens that Sen had designed. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures and the post cards they had available did not capture what I would like to have taken pictures of. One interesting thing we were told is that the white rock gardens associated with Zen Buddism came Temple_detailabout because there was a big fire in Kyoto back in the 15th century and after all the temples had been rebuilt there was no money left to replace the classic gardens so groomed white rocks were substituted for water.

Next stop was lunch at a restaurant specializing in vegetarian food. Every dish was delicious and almost enough to convince me to become a vegetarian. I do think the cooking must be very labor intensive. As always the presentation was beautiful but I had to give up my camera bag at the door and was too lazy to go back and get it so again, no picture.

We rounded out the day at a Raku museum. This apparently refers to a rustiCameliac sort of pottery used for tea bowls which has been produced by the same family for 15 generations. Personally, I could not see what all the fuss was about. But they also had a display of Noh masks which was of more interest to me. But once again, no photographs. I’m beginning to understand that the advantage of cell phones over real cameras is it is easier to cheat in a situation like this. They did, at least, have some nice flowers in their front garden. From there, we caught a cab back to the hotel and are once again on our own for dinner. I am thinking of returning to the Nishiki market to taste some street food and look for souvenirs.

I was more successful at finding souvenirs than food. I eventually ran into Jodi and Marc on my way back to the hotel but they were going all the way back to the shopping arcade for Sukiyaki and that seemed too far to me at that point, especially for Sukiyaki. So, I headed back with the idea of eating something at the hotel when I spied some American style sandwiches at a coffee shop and grabbed those and a beer from the vending machines and settled into my room for the night.

Haiku:

Whisking green powder

Precise and focused movement

Ancient ritual

Japan – Day 11 – Miyama

We started our day with a traditional Japanese breakfast which I have to say I didn’t really enjoy. I have enjoyed taking one or two things from the buffets at various hotels to mix with my western choices but having only fish and seaweed in front of me didn’t really work for me. The egg mixed into rice wasn’t bad and Kathleen showed us how to wrap it up in nori using our chopsticks and that turned out better than I had expected. And I always enjoy the miso soup for breakfast. But I did have to go back to my room and eat some cookies to get the seaweed taste out of my mouth.

CookingWe boarded the bus for the last time this morning and headed into the mountains to a small village called Miyama. Here we were taken to an elementary school which had been closed and was being repurposed as a sort of community center. After seeing some of the classrooms we were taken to the cafeteria where we were handed aprons and bandanas in preparation for a cooking lesson in which we would make our own lunch. The first course was fairly simple, parboiled spinach mixed with ground sesame seeds. Next we did a stir-fry composed of julienned carrots and green peppers and shaved burdock root (don’t ask, it’s supposed to be really good for you and didn’t taste bad). Then we prepared something called Chirashi or Food“scattered” sushi which is shown in the picture. It consisted of a vinegar rice base with thinly sliced scrambled eggs, radishes, shrimp, mushrooms, dried bonito flakes (that’s the pink stuff), and snow peas. I think this was also the one where they stirred the baby fish into the rice before-hand. Anyway, it tasted really good. They also demonstrated making miso soup.

thatchedAfter lunch we went just down the road to tour the village which is one of only a few remaining towns featuring thatched roofs. Our guide was a craftsman who specializes in repairing thatched roofs. Except in special circumstances new houses are not allowed to have thatched roofs but maintaining old ones is encourages by government subsidies. While at the village we had an opportunity for a short visit to an Indigo museum with a demonstration from the artist who owns and operates it.Indigo

Back in the bus we headed for our final and long anticipated destination, Kyoto! It turns out that Kyoto is a city of about 1.5 million people and so far, what I have seen of it is all very modern. But we will have five days to explore so we will see what turns up. For dinner we went to a local restaurant and were served a western/Japanese fusion meal consisting of and appetizer plate, sashimi, a tofu salad, roast chicken, some kind of sweet pizza with honey and fruit, a fish soup, a rice dish and miso soup. The whole thing took two hours to get through so we were pretty tired and not too enthusiastic about the final courses. Usually, the service on these multi course meals is very efficient with one plate being whisked away before you even knew you were finished and another one put in front of you. Here things were much more leisurely. Most things were served family style in groups of four. And maybe the sake didn’t help.

Haiku:

Houses with thatched roofs

Bright spring flowers blossoming

Peaceful mountain homes

Japan – Day 10 – Obama

Just when we thought the weather could not get any worse it did. As we werelaquerware boarding the bus we experienced, all in the space of five minutes, snow, rain, sleet, hail, thunder and lightning. Our guides had to scramble around and find an indoor activity to substitute for our walk through the samurai quarter. Instead we went to the Museum of Folk Art which was interesting enough. I especially liked the highly decorative lacquerware.

We then headed out of Kanazawa to our next destination, Obama. While the name of the town has nothing to do with the former president, they have adopted him as a sort of mascot and pictures of him are everywhere. A refreshing change from home, I must say.

We stopped for lunch at a highway rest stop. Here we put money in a machine, chose a picture of what we wanted to eat, and the machine spit out tickets which we handed to the vendor. Soon my bowl of ramen and plate of gyoza appeared. They also had a Starbucks, so I indulged in a tall mocha for dessert.

Just outside Obama we stopped at a Buddhist temple dating to the 8th Jointcentury. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, but the thousand-armed Buddha statue was impressive. What was also fascinating was that the building was built without nails. This closeup shows the detail of how the wood pieces are just fitted together like Lincoln logs.

papermakingOnce in town we dropped our luggage at the hotel, said goodbye to the bus and walked to our next appointment at a food museum. Here we had a craft lesson in making paper and later looked at all the plastic models of Japanese food.

We walked back to the hotel along the beautiful harbor in a bay which opens to the Sea of Japan. Our hotel here is a traditional Japanese Inn, with tatami mats and futons for beds. I am sitting here on a small stool as I type, which in my humble opinion is the only saving grace in the furnishings. Yes, I’m looking forward to returning to a modern Western hotel tonight.

Dinner was quite an affair. We sat down at the table set with a whole crab, soba noodles, a fish hot-pot to cook in front of us, rice, with octopus already steaming away, pickles, and sashimi. Next, they brought out a whole grilled fish, and egg custard dish, tempura, miso soup with seaweed, and a gelatin dessert. Just when we thought it was time to go they brought out a birthday cake for one of our group members. I was very happy to retreat to my futon.

Haiku:

Deep resounding bellTemple

Buddha with a thousand arms

Ancient place of peace.