Japan – Day 5 – Matsumoto

We left Tokyo behind yesterday and headed up to Matsumoto which is at the edge of the mountains and about 2700 feet in elevation. I was surprised to see wild cherry trees blossoming in the foothills as we were leaving the suburbs, but I was not able to get a picture. We only stvendingopped twice at highway rest stops. These were fascinating in themselves. Not only did they have banks of vending machines but also little shops selling snacks and souvenirs. One had bakery items worthy of some of the best patisseries I’ve seen.

MisoWe arrived in Matsumoto around noon and reported to our first stop at a traditional Miso factory where we had a brief talk from the head of the company who is the sixth-generation owner. We were then served a delicious lunch featuring their products. It included a salad with miso dressing, a miso based stew, and miso ice cream, which was very good.

After dropping our luggMatsumoto_Castleage at the hotel we proceeded to Matsumoto Castle which is listed as a Japanese National Treasure. And rightly so. It was constructed around 1590 but was completely restored in the 20th century. Here in the mountains the cherry blossoms are running a little later than in Tokyo and very close to peak. There will be cherry blossom celebrations tonight and we hope to see the castle again all lit up with traditional music and revelry.Matsumoto_Castle2

We walked back to the hotel which is only about three blocks from the castle and I look forward to spending more time exploring the shops and side streets during free time after our excursion into the Kiso Valley today.

bicycleAt the hotel we had the best meal of the trip so far. It consisted of an appetizer course including seaweed which was much better than it sounds, pickles, salad, and some tasty fish cakes;  next course was a savory egg custard dish. Then we had sashimi which was a first for me and I hope not a last because I loved it. Then we had a tempura plate which was kind of like a birds nest of deep fried things all clumped together. Finally, we had a chicken and vegetable soup that cooked in front of us at our table, and of course rice. This was the first time also, that we were served desert which was a tasty cake with some kiwi and pineapple on the side. I may have to start bringing my camera to dinner because the presentations of the food are always exquisite.

Haiku:

Castle Shining bright

Still moat waters surrounding

Reflecting old ways

Japan – Day 4 – Kabuki

Our second day in Japan was all about Kabuki theater. We started the morning with a lecture about the art of Kabuki which was developed as an artform separate from Noh theater about 400 years ago. Unlike Noh, which was intended for the elite, Kabuki was the theater of the common people.

PosterThe name derives from Ka meaning song, bu, meaning dance and ki meaning skill or drama. The first Kabuki style plays were developed by a woman but by 1629 women were banned from performing and, unlike western theaters, they have never been allowed back.  All the roles in Kabuki are played by men and some actors specialize in performing women’s roles. The white makeup sometimes seen in Kabuki derives from a time when there was no stage lighting, so the faces were painted to make them easier to see.

TheaterFrom our lecture we proceeded to the theater with Bento boxes in hand to see the first matinee performance which began aTheater_Frontt 11:00am. The Kabuki theater in Tokyo’s Ginza district was rebuilt in 2013 but in the old style. Modern touches such as escalators have been added but the seats are Theater_Detaildefinitely sized for Japanese bottoms. The symbol of the theater is the phoenix and decorative representations are found everywhere.

Shrine

There is also a small Shinto shrine tucked away in a corner in front of the theater for actors to pray for a successful performance.

We were, of course, not allowed to take photographs during the performances but I was able to take one of the stage and curtain during intermission. The first stageplay lasted about an hour and was about negotiations for surrender of the Shoganate in 1868. Although we had a translating device the speeches were longwinded and it was hard to keep up. There was not a lot of action on stage, just actors in samurai costume talking at length.

During intermission we enjoyed our bento box lunch which consisted of rice and a lot of things I didn’t recognize and most of which were not to my taste. I felt like I needed a translator for lunch.

The second play was more traditional Kabuki style, meaning it is stylized Poster2and not too realistic. The second act was most interesting though some of the scenes went on too long. It didn’t help that our translation device only gave a synopsis of the action and not a word for word translation. Still we could follow the story. Not unlike a Shakespearean tragedy, there were a lot of dead bodies by the end of the play, which ended about 4pm with two additional intermissions.

All in all, it was an interesting experience but I was a little disappointed that there were not more colorful costumes and wild wigs.

Haiku:

Kabuki actors

White faces and kimonos

History relived

Japan Day 3 – Cherry Blossoms

Don’t worry, you haven’t missed anything, days 1 and 2 were travel days. We had a full day of exploring parks and museums in Tokyo yesterday and I was so tired at the end of the day I could not figure out how to choose a few photos to share with you. Then when I woke up in the middle of the night It became clear to me that the way to go was not to just give you a blow bBlossoms1y blow account of what we did but to concentrate on the theme of the day which was without question Cherry Blossoms.

Now, I have to say I did not come to Japan particularly to see the cherry blossoms. But when it came time to decide when to go I thought, “Well, why not go when the cherries are blossoming.” So, I came without great expectations. Well, it turns out that here in Tokyo the Cherry Blossoms peaked the middle of last week. To my eye there were still plenty of trees still nearing peak but I can see that the overall effect might have been even more stunning a few days ago.

Blossoms2What I found interesting was how obsessed these people are with the flowering of trees. We all enjoy the spring blossoms at home, but these people have Cherry Blossom viewing parties. And, it being Sunday, yesterday, the viewing was in full swing, despite the best blossoms having past peak. Apparently, the snowy effect of the falling blossoms is also appreciated. Our Palace1guides were quite concerned about finding us trees to view in their full glory.

So, we started our day at the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. This is the location of the Palace of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled from about 1600 to 1868 (also known as the Edo Period in Japan because the capital was moved from Kyoto to what would become Tokyo at the time the Tokugawas came into power). The main buildings from that time have all burned down. But the stunning rock walls remain as do some of the gate houses. And the East Gardens serve as a lovely public park. The Emperor and his family still live here in aPolice_Palace rebuilt palace.

On the day of our visit, however, parts of the Palace grounds which are not normally open to the public were available for viewing the cherry blossoms as the Emperor and his family would see them. And peoplPalace2e were lining up in mass to go in. These police officers were directing people where to go.

We stayed clear of the crowds and visited the regular grounds. Palace_LanternThere we saw plenty of blossoming trees as well as people setting up for their viewing parties under the blossoming trees. We also had a chance to see the traditionally landscaped gardens.

Next, we visited the Yasukuni shrine. A Shinto shrine dedicated to those fallen in wars. This picture was taken at one of the entry gate looking out. The main shrine building is beautiful but, unfortuYasukuni1nately, I couldn’t get any cherry blossoms into the picture, so it will have to be seen at another time. It

Finally, we headed to Ueno park. After lunch we strolled through the park, as best we could due to massive crowds. Here viewing parties were in full gear and as our guide pointed out, you could almost smell the sake in the air. People had set up tarps all along the paths and were reveling cheek by jowl under the trees. It was a carnival atmosphere and included food booths in an open square near the end of our walk to the Tokyo National Museum. It put me in mind of being on the WaPaintingshington (D.C.) mall on forth of July waiting for the fireworks to begin.

We retreated into the museum which boasts many beautiful treasures. But in keeping with my theme, I will only share this photograph of a painting of a Cherry Blossom viewing party from an earlier day.

 

 

 

For my daily Haiku, I have tried to capture the aesthetic of the Cherry Blossoms:Ueno1

 

Delicate blossoms

Such ephemeral beauty

Petals drop like snow.