Japan – Day 8 – Takayama to Kanazawa

We had been pretty lucky with the weather up to this point, but the rain set in this morning and only got worse through the day. At least we started indoors at the Takayama Jinya, a government building datiJinyang to the early Edo period when the Tokugawa Shogunate took direct control of the area for its timber resources. The building continued as something equivalent to a county courthouse until 1969. In the early days it also served as a residence for the head man and his wife and servants.

Just outside the Jinya is a morning market which we had a little time to eMarketxplore. In addition to fruits and vegetable there were a few crafts and lots of pickles to buy.

Next, we proceeded to walk across the red bridge to the historic district where we spent some time strolling a street filled with shops and restaurants, not unlike a touristy town back home. Think Jacksonville. Although we had been promised sake tasting, it seems that the sake breweries have all moved out of the area. There were still a few sake shops as evidenced by the containers seen below, on display in front of several shops. Our lunch spot by contrast was a very modern restaurant upstairs in a furniture store, offering western style food with an Italian flair. We were presented with a lovely plate of fish and grilled vegetables and had access to a salad bar with additional side dishes and desert.

Strolling back up the street the umbrellas came out in earnest and we Sakegathered back up under an awning outside a museum before heading to the bus to settle in for our two-hour trip to Kanazawa. The drive consisted of a few breathtaking glimpses of mountain scenery in between tunnels. One of the tunnels was among the longest in the country at 11km. I was starting to get a bit claustrophobic, not to mention asphyxiated by the time we emerged from that one.

Once in Kanazawa we stopped at one of several historic Teahouse districts. Again, theTeahouse area has become a tourist destination of shops and cafes though we did hear some shamisen music echoing the past. And again, dodging the umbrellas of our fellow travelers was the name of the game, not to mention the taxis and police cars. We did see a few women dressed in kimonos but our guide assured us they were just playing tourist and probably not even Japanese, let alone geisha.

Back on the bus for a short ride to our hotel. A most impressive Crowne Plaza with a waterfall in the lobby, located next to the train station which I look forward to exploring during our free time.

Now that I’m about recovered from jet lag, I realized that I have been neglecting my daily haiku. So, during free time yesterday I went back and made some up for the days I missed and appended them to the blogs so you might want to scroll back and take a look if you like haiku.

Here is the one for this day:

Umbrellas open

Deflecting the falling rain

Blossoms emerging.

Japan – Day 7 – On to Takayama

Today we started out at the Matsumoto Art Museum where they are having a special exhibit of local daughter Yayoi Kusama’s work. She gained fame in New York City in the 1960s but returned home to MatsuYayoiKusamamoto in the 1970s. Here she checked herself into a mental hospital where she still lives but continues to work in a studio near by at the age of 89. Her work is a bit too avant-garde for my taste but it was interesting to see the exhibit. In addition to the paintings she does a lot of interesting things with mirrors creating an infinity effeJapaneseAlpsct.

After the museum we left Matsumoto behind to cross the Japanese Alps into Takayama. The mountains were beautiful with rivers and streams and waterfalls and reservoirs. There was still some snow on the ground near the top. Sadly, we had only one stop and the photo ops there were quite limited. You could see a better view in the other direction from inside the building, but I could find no way around the building and the door said no re-entry, so I had to give it up.

We stopped for lunch just outside Takayama at a roadside café where we Lunchspotwere served a large bowl of ramen noodles with some chicken, bamboo shoots, black mushrooms and green onions. There were a lot of fun signs and decorations around the place, so I got to take a few photos before getting back on the bus.

Next stop was the Takayama float museum. This is a rotating exhibit of elaborate floats used in festival parades in the spring and fall. Next to the museum is one oFloat_Museumf the shrines some of the floats deliver spirits to. And, since it was a lovely day we took a walk through one of the old neighborhoods. A preview of coming attractions tomorrow when there is a threat of rain.

Finally, we headed up a hill to our hotel, a modern high rise on the outskirts Takayamaof town that boasts a phenomenal view. Dinner was another multicourse affair at the hotel. We started with a salad as usual. Then we had small pieces of Waygu beef that we cooked on a little grill in front of us. Next was a beef hotpot also cooked at the table. Then we had tempura, one shrimp and some vegetables. The last course was a sushi plate with a variety of fish over rice.  And for desert a few small pieces of fruit. Once again, I was kicking myself for not having brought my camera to dinner.

Haiku:

Snow capped blue mountains

Road winding into forest

Flowing waterfalls

Japan – Day 6 – Narai

On Wednesday we had a field trip to the Kiso Valley. Ocraftsmanur first stop was at the home of a lacquerware craftsman. The group divided into two with one seeing the house and gardens from the wife and the other getting a chance to see the craftsman at work.

Next, we went to Narai, an old post town on the Nakasendo, an Edo era road from Kyoto to Edo (now Tokyo). The post towns provided food and lodging for travelers. Samurai parties sometimes numbered in the thousands, so this must have been quite a task. It is a popular Narairoute for hikers and backpackers to explore today. We visited the local shrine then walked through the town which I found to be a photographer’s paradise.

About midway through town we stopped for lunch. This picture only shows the first few courses and I must say the rice cakes were far tastier than they Lunchlook. These dishes were followed up by deep fried tofu with a spicy miso sauce and a bowl of Soba (buckwheat) noodles in broth, a specialty of the region. For desert we were presented with a small bowl with three fresh strawberries. We then had about an hour to explore the town and shops. I would have liked to buy some lacquerware but I couldn’t think what I would do with it and the black and red colors would not go well in my earth-tone house. I did find a wooden rice paddle that I thought might work well in one of my food photography sessions.

WoodblockBack on the bus we rode for an hour back to the outskirts of Matsumoto where we stopped at a wood block museum. I was pretty tired by then and could not do it justice but I bought a set of postcards that I can study at leisure when I get home.

I had an hour or so to rest back at the hotel before venturing out to see theCastle_night castle and cherry blossoms all lit up at night. It was worth the trip. We were on our own for dinner and I did not feel adventurous enough to go to a restaurant on my own and the hotel was far too expensive (like $80 for a meal), so I explored the snacks in the vending machine instead. They even have vending machines with beer in the hotel so it wasn’t such a bad evening in, especially after that sumptuous lunch, though I have to say I’m not entirely sure what I was eating.

Haiku:

Nakasendo road

From Edo to Kyoto

Echoing footsteps

Japan – Day 5 – Matsumoto

We left Tokyo behind yesterday and headed up to Matsumoto which is at the edge of the mountains and about 2700 feet in elevation. I was surprised to see wild cherry trees blossoming in the foothills as we were leaving the suburbs, but I was not able to get a picture. We only stvendingopped twice at highway rest stops. These were fascinating in themselves. Not only did they have banks of vending machines but also little shops selling snacks and souvenirs. One had bakery items worthy of some of the best patisseries I’ve seen.

MisoWe arrived in Matsumoto around noon and reported to our first stop at a traditional Miso factory where we had a brief talk from the head of the company who is the sixth-generation owner. We were then served a delicious lunch featuring their products. It included a salad with miso dressing, a miso based stew, and miso ice cream, which was very good.

After dropping our luggMatsumoto_Castleage at the hotel we proceeded to Matsumoto Castle which is listed as a Japanese National Treasure. And rightly so. It was constructed around 1590 but was completely restored in the 20th century. Here in the mountains the cherry blossoms are running a little later than in Tokyo and very close to peak. There will be cherry blossom celebrations tonight and we hope to see the castle again all lit up with traditional music and revelry.Matsumoto_Castle2

We walked back to the hotel which is only about three blocks from the castle and I look forward to spending more time exploring the shops and side streets during free time after our excursion into the Kiso Valley today.

bicycleAt the hotel we had the best meal of the trip so far. It consisted of an appetizer course including seaweed which was much better than it sounds, pickles, salad, and some tasty fish cakes;  next course was a savory egg custard dish. Then we had sashimi which was a first for me and I hope not a last because I loved it. Then we had a tempura plate which was kind of like a birds nest of deep fried things all clumped together. Finally, we had a chicken and vegetable soup that cooked in front of us at our table, and of course rice. This was the first time also, that we were served desert which was a tasty cake with some kiwi and pineapple on the side. I may have to start bringing my camera to dinner because the presentations of the food are always exquisite.

Haiku:

Castle Shining bright

Still moat waters surrounding

Reflecting old ways

Japan – Day 4 – Kabuki

Our second day in Japan was all about Kabuki theater. We started the morning with a lecture about the art of Kabuki which was developed as an artform separate from Noh theater about 400 years ago. Unlike Noh, which was intended for the elite, Kabuki was the theater of the common people.

PosterThe name derives from Ka meaning song, bu, meaning dance and ki meaning skill or drama. The first Kabuki style plays were developed by a woman but by 1629 women were banned from performing and, unlike western theaters, they have never been allowed back.  All the roles in Kabuki are played by men and some actors specialize in performing women’s roles. The white makeup sometimes seen in Kabuki derives from a time when there was no stage lighting, so the faces were painted to make them easier to see.

TheaterFrom our lecture we proceeded to the theater with Bento boxes in hand to see the first matinee performance which began aTheater_Frontt 11:00am. The Kabuki theater in Tokyo’s Ginza district was rebuilt in 2013 but in the old style. Modern touches such as escalators have been added but the seats are Theater_Detaildefinitely sized for Japanese bottoms. The symbol of the theater is the phoenix and decorative representations are found everywhere.

Shrine

There is also a small Shinto shrine tucked away in a corner in front of the theater for actors to pray for a successful performance.

We were, of course, not allowed to take photographs during the performances but I was able to take one of the stage and curtain during intermission. The first stageplay lasted about an hour and was about negotiations for surrender of the Shoganate in 1868. Although we had a translating device the speeches were longwinded and it was hard to keep up. There was not a lot of action on stage, just actors in samurai costume talking at length.

During intermission we enjoyed our bento box lunch which consisted of rice and a lot of things I didn’t recognize and most of which were not to my taste. I felt like I needed a translator for lunch.

The second play was more traditional Kabuki style, meaning it is stylized Poster2and not too realistic. The second act was most interesting though some of the scenes went on too long. It didn’t help that our translation device only gave a synopsis of the action and not a word for word translation. Still we could follow the story. Not unlike a Shakespearean tragedy, there were a lot of dead bodies by the end of the play, which ended about 4pm with two additional intermissions.

All in all, it was an interesting experience but I was a little disappointed that there were not more colorful costumes and wild wigs.

Haiku:

Kabuki actors

White faces and kimonos

History relived

Japan Day 3 – Cherry Blossoms

Don’t worry, you haven’t missed anything, days 1 and 2 were travel days. We had a full day of exploring parks and museums in Tokyo yesterday and I was so tired at the end of the day I could not figure out how to choose a few photos to share with you. Then when I woke up in the middle of the night It became clear to me that the way to go was not to just give you a blow bBlossoms1y blow account of what we did but to concentrate on the theme of the day which was without question Cherry Blossoms.

Now, I have to say I did not come to Japan particularly to see the cherry blossoms. But when it came time to decide when to go I thought, “Well, why not go when the cherries are blossoming.” So, I came without great expectations. Well, it turns out that here in Tokyo the Cherry Blossoms peaked the middle of last week. To my eye there were still plenty of trees still nearing peak but I can see that the overall effect might have been even more stunning a few days ago.

Blossoms2What I found interesting was how obsessed these people are with the flowering of trees. We all enjoy the spring blossoms at home, but these people have Cherry Blossom viewing parties. And, it being Sunday, yesterday, the viewing was in full swing, despite the best blossoms having past peak. Apparently, the snowy effect of the falling blossoms is also appreciated. Our Palace1guides were quite concerned about finding us trees to view in their full glory.

So, we started our day at the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. This is the location of the Palace of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled from about 1600 to 1868 (also known as the Edo Period in Japan because the capital was moved from Kyoto to what would become Tokyo at the time the Tokugawas came into power). The main buildings from that time have all burned down. But the stunning rock walls remain as do some of the gate houses. And the East Gardens serve as a lovely public park. The Emperor and his family still live here in aPolice_Palace rebuilt palace.

On the day of our visit, however, parts of the Palace grounds which are not normally open to the public were available for viewing the cherry blossoms as the Emperor and his family would see them. And peoplPalace2e were lining up in mass to go in. These police officers were directing people where to go.

We stayed clear of the crowds and visited the regular grounds. Palace_LanternThere we saw plenty of blossoming trees as well as people setting up for their viewing parties under the blossoming trees. We also had a chance to see the traditionally landscaped gardens.

Next, we visited the Yasukuni shrine. A Shinto shrine dedicated to those fallen in wars. This picture was taken at one of the entry gate looking out. The main shrine building is beautiful but, unfortuYasukuni1nately, I couldn’t get any cherry blossoms into the picture, so it will have to be seen at another time. It

Finally, we headed to Ueno park. After lunch we strolled through the park, as best we could due to massive crowds. Here viewing parties were in full gear and as our guide pointed out, you could almost smell the sake in the air. People had set up tarps all along the paths and were reveling cheek by jowl under the trees. It was a carnival atmosphere and included food booths in an open square near the end of our walk to the Tokyo National Museum. It put me in mind of being on the WaPaintingshington (D.C.) mall on forth of July waiting for the fireworks to begin.

We retreated into the museum which boasts many beautiful treasures. But in keeping with my theme, I will only share this photograph of a painting of a Cherry Blossom viewing party from an earlier day.

 

 

 

For my daily Haiku, I have tried to capture the aesthetic of the Cherry Blossoms:Ueno1

 

Delicate blossoms

Such ephemeral beauty

Petals drop like snow.

San Juan Islands Day 4

FruitThis was the first day of the land portion of our tour. It started with a guest lecture from a local artist named Nancy Spaulding who, with her husband, has been making a living from doing art on San Juan Island for many years. Next we split into two groups with one headed for the History Museum and one to the Whale MuseuAmCampm. My group was for history where we learned about the fruit preserve collection dating to 1909. I always love the small history museum for all the daily utilitarian artifacts they have inherited over the years. This one was no exception.

Next up we had a bus tour of San Juan Island starting at American Camp. There the American soldiers waited out the resolution of the border dispute with the British over the border between the United States and Canada. The only casualty in the conflict seems to have been a pig who wandered into the wrong camp.

LavenderrWe made a quick side trip to the local lavender farm which for me was a highlight of the trip due to the abundance of colorful photo ops.

We then made our way to Lime Kiln State Park. Here we found the Lime Kiln lighthouse which is seen in many San Juan Island photographs and art works. Unfortunately the time of day was not the best for us and I think I have better images taken from the boat when we cruised by on Tuesday.LimeKilnLH

Finally, we continued to explore the interior of the Island, including a drive by the local alpaca farm and a pause to wave at Mona the camel which was adopted by a local farm family. One gets the sense that not a lot happens on the Island but everyone is involved and interested in everything that does.

And then we headed back to the hotel for yet another chicken dinner.

San Juan Islands Day2

LandingDay 2 dawned bright and sunny and we made our way down to the Spring Street Landing to meet the Chinook where we would have breakfast onboard while cruising north toward Roche Harbor. We arrived around 10am and started our tour with a trip to the Lime Kilns, relics of a major industryLimeKilns of the 19th century. We then proceeded up the path toward the sculpture gardens ever cognizant that we had less than two hours before departure and still needed to see the historic hotel and gardens as well as the Frogartisan’s marketplace.

Back on board we cruised south around San Juan Island to make a complete circle en route to Orcas Island while being served a cracked crab and barbeque chicken lunch. Somewhere along the way more Orcas were sighted but they proved elusive to photograph.Hotel

We arrived at Rosario Resort around 3pm and were immediately bussed to a  private Salmon Hatchery where an organization called Long Live the Kings is hard at work trying to restore populations of Chinook (aka King) salmon in the Salish Sea. This is a new term for me, it seems that recently it was decided to call the combined waters making up the Puget Sound, Straits of Georgia and San Juan de Fuca the Salish sea. It was interesting to hear about how they harvest the eggs and sperm to cultivate young salmon for return to the wild.

Chinook2On returning to the boat around 5 we were offered a tasting of two Washington wines along with cheese and crackers as we cruised back to our home base at Friday Harbor. As if we hadn’t had enough to eat that day we then had a catered dinner of seafood enchiladas with chips and salsa and coleslaw.

San Juan Islands Day1

Our Chinook1trip started Sunday in Seattle at an airport hotel where we gathered for an evening meal and brief orientation. The next morning we were put on a bus to Bellingham where we met our private boat, The Chinook. Our luggage was loaded onto the boat and we were underway by 10:00 am. Our cruise to Friday Harbor had barely begun when our Captain got word of sightings of Transient Orcas nearby and we headed that way and were rewarded with views of the big killer whales by 11 am.

Orca1

After a fun hour or so of whale watching we were served a delicious onboard lunch of lasagna and salad only to have another whale sighting reported closer to shore. We hurried through lunch and went out on deck to try and photograph the whales. I took a lot of pictures but only a few turned out with recognizable Orcas. Still it was a thrill to see them.

Orca3

ASeagulls we resumed our journey there were also bald eagles to be seen. Not to mention sea gulls and cormorants. There were boats of all shapes and sizes from huge tankers to tugboats to ferrys to sailboats to pleasure craft to whale watching zodiacs.  And just to put a little icing on the cake Mount Baker put in an occasional appearance on the eastern horizon.

MtBaker

We finally pulled in to Friday Harbor at around 2:30pm, walked the few blocks to our hotel for the week and had a couple of hours to rest and get organized before our catered dinner at the Farmer’s Market building downtown. All in all a great start to our tour of the San Juan Islands.

New Bern

BannnerFounded in 1710 by Swiss and German immigrants, New Bern was named for Bern Switzerland. Since Bern means bear in German the town has embraced the bear as its symbol. Bear flags, banners and statues decorated in all manner of costume can be found throughout the downtown area.Colonial_Bear

New Bern also served as the colonial capitol of North Carolina and Governor Tyron had a palace built here in 1770. Though the capitol was moved to more centrally located Raleigh and the palace subsequently burned down, citizens reclaimed their history by reconstructing it in the 1950s. Furnished with period antiques the palace offers tours guided Tryon2by costumed docents.

New Bern’s other claim to fame is as the birthplace of PepPepsi2si Cola. A small museum and gift shop
 occupies the site where Pepsi was born.