Derry to Galway via Drumcliffe

I really don’t have a lot to show you today as we spent most of the day on the bus making our way from Derry in Northern Ireland to Galway on the west coast. I wish I could have gotten a picture of the art installation at the border. It is called the five giants or “Let the Dance Begin” There are five oversized figures playing musical instruments in a roundabout where the checkpoint crossing from Northern Ireland used to be. The figures were built from the scrap metal that resulted when the checkpoints were dismantled. Yet another celebration of the peace now prevailing on the island.

YeatsWe traveled through countryside that gives meaning to the word bucolic with cattle, sheep, cottages, stone fences and even the odd potato field. We did have a brief stop in Drumcliffe to visit the graHigh_Crossve of William Butler Yeats. I found myself more interested in the Celtic crosses in the cemetery including this high cross dating to the 9th century.

We had a guided tour through some of Yeat’s favorite landscapes, including a short hike to a waterfall near this lake. Though he was born in Dublin his grandparents lived in County Sligo which is considered to be his spiritual home. After hearing some of his poems read and recited I would like to hear more and will be looking for Lake_Glencara book of his poems to bring home as a souvenir.

We proceeded to the town of Sligo for a hearty lunch of Sea Bass with the requisite mashed potatoes. Vegetables were served family style and we nearly had to fight for the broccoli and cauliflower sprinkled in amongst the carrots and parsnips. We are now ensconced in our new hotel in Galway and tomorrow promises to be a big day exploring the Connemara Peninsula.

Derry and the Inishowen Penninsula

City_HallWe started this morning with a walking tour of Derry. Here is a shot of the beautiful city hall. I suppose since I am a protestant and of British decent I should call it Londonderry but I am also a champion of the underdog and I’m convinced the Catholics have gotten a pretty raw deal over the years so I’m going to side with them and call it Derry. Our guide told us the town took the name to court recently and the Judge threw up his hands and said “I’m not getting in the middle of this.” So they muddle through with the dual name.

It seems that Derry has two claims to historical fame. One was the siege of Derry back when King William and King James were going at it, I forget who won and am a little perplexed about why something that happened nearly 400 years ago still matters, except, I guess when nearly a quarter of your town’s population dies you probably woBirduld remember for a long time, and apparently those memories and resentments played into the “Troubles” of the 20th century. The other event, Bloody Sunday, I’m a little more sympathetic about, maybe because it happened in my lifetime (1972). Maybe because it was all about 13 civil rights marchers getting caught in the cross fire during the “Troubles.” Maybe because apologies
from the British have only recently been issued.

Derry is also known for being a walled city and for being the UK “City of Peace_BridgeCulture” in 2013. Here is a picture of the peace bridge opened in 2011 and financed by the EU. It has been made very clear to us that Northern Ireland did not vote for Brexit, has benefited greatly economically from being part of the EU and hopes the whole thing will be turned around.  DoveDerry also has its own set of murals regarding the troubles but my favorite was the dove rising out of the darkness into a brighter future.

After our walk we hopped on the coach and headed to the Inishowen peninsula. We crossed the border into the Republic of Ireland without noticing and added county Donegal to our list of conquests. Our first stop was a ring fort dating to the 5th century. I made the mistake of ring_fortclimbing to the top. The views were spectacular but getting down again was a bit tricky for an old fat woman. Notice the heather that was blooming on all the hillsides.

Lunch was at a pub in a small town which served up a delicious fish chowder and open faced crab salad sandwich. We then proceeded to MalinThatched head which is not only the northernmost point in Ireland but the location of the shooting of the latest star wars movie. We also got our first taste of thatched roof cottages and sheSheepep. And we learned all about peat bogs, of which there are a lot on the
Inishowen Penninsula.

 

Bushmills and the Giant’s Causeway

We said goodbye to Belfast today and I packed up my troubles in my new kit bag. I’m excited to report that I just checked on the status of my lost bag and much to my surprise it looks like it is going to be delivered to me tonight. Assuming of course that they got the message that I’m now in Derry not Belfast!

Bushmills_LogoBut, I digress. Our first stop this morning was at old Bushmills distillery. Here’s a picture of their logo in stained glass. We were not allowed to photograph inside and the outside pictures were a little murky due to the rain. We had a tour of the facility and I got to taste some 12 year old whiskey. Which may have been a mistake because up until now I was pretty sure I didn’t like whiskey. This could make a convert of me but the good news is 12 year old Bushmills is not sold outside Ireland so I won’t be able to develop any new habits once I get home. I suppose at this point I should probably stick to wine anyway.

We had lunch at the Bushmills Inn which you can’t see here. Not a veryrain good day to choose to sit at the front of the bus. The shepherd’s pie was delicious but, and I never thought I would say this, I am getting a little tired of meat and potatoes.

Causeway We went on to the Giant’s Causeway just up the road. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its unique Geological formations. It was pouring rain as we were having our guided tour but later eased up. I was just a little disgruntled about the numDunluce_Castleber of people swarming the area. Tourists from all over the world just like me.

From the causeway we headed to Derry with one stop for photographs
along the beautiful Irish Coast. In one
direction the ruins of Dunluce castle, in the other some beautiful cliffs.

On to the hotel in DCliffserry and wonder of wonders they had fish on the menu and it wasn’t fried! It was, of course, served with mashed potatoes.

 

Armagh and the Cathedrals of Saint Patrick

We started the day today with a lecture which tried to stuff the history of Ireland into one hour. I gained more insight into the troubles and the Scotch Irish immigration to the U.S.  Our lecturer agreed with my driver Seamus that Northern Ireland would probably someday join the Republic “but not in my lifetime” he said. He pointed out that the Catholic population of Northern Ireland is outpacing the Protestant and eventually they will become a majority allowing for a referendum to leave Great Britain and join the Republic of Ireland. Meanwhile, everyone seems shocked and and confused about how Brexit might complicate already strained relations.

Then we traveled about an hour south of Belfast to Armagh which is the home of not one but two cathedrals dedicated to St. Patrick. One is Catholic, the other Anglican (or Church of Ireland as they like to say here).

Exterior_CatholicWell it was raining a little heavily when we got to the first church (the Catholic one) so my outdoor pictures leave something to be desired but I tried.

This cathedral was built between 1840 and 1870 and is very ornate inside with many stained glass windows and mosaic tiles on all of the floors and walls.Stained_Glasswall_StPats

 

Floor_StPats

 

The next church was much older, dating from 1268, witExterior_Anglicanh updates and changes since then of course. This church was less ornate but had stained glass that was more to my taste and seemed a little brighter. There was also a lot more statuary in this one, including this reader that Stained_Glass2I especially liked.Reader

 

 

 

 

Upon returning to Belfast we had some free time. So I went shopping, having heard nothing from the airlines about my bag. I scored a new bag, two pair of jeans, a sweater some shirts and underwear, and an electrical adaptor so I can keep taking pictures and posting blogs. What won’t be so easy to replace are the charging cords for my phone, Nook, and Fitbit. There is probably a message in here about what we really can live without.

I also had my first Guiness this evening, well and my second too. And with that it is time to bid you good night.

Belfast and the Troubles

I woke up this morning at 1am and never went back to sleep so I got up at 6 and went for an early morning walk around the area. Lots of people scurrying off to work. I really admired the Victorian architecture I found along the way. Belfast_City_Hall City Hall is one example. They say there are 3 tons of Cararra Marble inside but I haven’t had a chance to check it out yet and probably won’t.

This clock tower also caught my eye.Clock_Tower

We had an excellent lecture this morning from a man who has made it his hobby to photograph and write about the murals that have come out of the “Troubles” which is how the Irish refer to the 30+ year civil war that tore apart Northern Ireland from the late sixties into the early years of the twentieth century.

It is all very complex and I am not going to try to explain it here. The point is hundreds of years of oppression going back to the defeat of King James (a Catholic) by William of Orange (a Protestant) in 1690 have resulted in deep hatreds and resentments which go far beyond religion. One side wants Northern Ireland to stay with Great Britain, the other wants it to become part of the Republic of Ireland. An upshot of all this has been a series of murals which have come and gone over the years and evolved in their content and message.

Those we saDouglasw today were much less graphic and intimidating than some we saw pictures of from the darkest days of the Troubles. Gone are the soldiers with guns and hooded masks. They have been replaced with artworks celebrating those who haDovesve opposed and overcome their oppressors.
An example is this one of Frederick Douglas and other American blacks involved in civil rights.  Another hints that those who would end the peace are still out there. Some honor the 10 hunger strikers who

died in an effort to loosen restriction placed on political prisoners.

In addition to the Murals Belfast has a Peace Wall which I found particularly moving. Over a long stretch of graffiti strewn wall people have written messages of peace and hope such as those shown here. My parents visited Belfast in the 1980s or 90s and talked oPeace_Wallf checkpoints and soldiers carrying rifles everywhere. The checkpoints and soldiers are gone and the people of Belfast seem committed to maintaining the peace. I asked my driver from Dublin if he Peace_close
thought Northern Ireland would ever become part of the Republic because geographically it just makes sense. But what he explained to me is that economically it does not. And culturally it does not and while he thought that maybe at some time in the future it could happen the memories of the troubles will have to fade into the past and only future
generations who hStormontave no experience of the oppression and the conflicts can bring about the healing that would be necessary.

Today we also visited Stormont, the Northern Ireland Parliament building, the equivalent of a State Capitol building in the U.S.Stormont_Ceiling Its construction was completed in 1932. Its setting is on a former Estate allowing for expansive landscaping and views.

We had lunch at a restaurant called Molly’s Yard. What I am learning about Irish Cuisine is that they love their meat and potatoes. Potatoes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. So far I have had pork, beef, and chicken. No sign of fish or shrimp. And mention fish and someone tells you where you can go for fish and chips. Even with a morning walk around the area and an afternoon pedestrian shopping excursion to buy new clothes to wear tomorrow I feel overfed and bloated. Hoping to do better tomorrow.

Murphy’s Law

I suppose if you travel to Ireland you should expect Murphy to take a hand but really I think he has overstepped his bounds on this one. I arrived at the Medford, Oregon airport at 5:30 AM in plenty of time for my 7AM flight. I had TSA Pre check so I sailed through security and didn’t even have to take my laptop out of my bag. I was happily settled in at the gate by 5:45, gotta love Rogue Valley “International” Airport. Came time to be boarding and the announcement came that due to fog in San Francisco our departure would be delayed by 2 ½ hours. That meant I would miss my connection to Chicago and hence the flight to Dublin.

I patiently awaited my turn with the gate agent who finally called me up about 8 and rebooked me on a flight to Dublin through Newark. At least I would only be 2 hours late. I emailed Road Scholar and they said no worries I would still be able to travel with the group to Belfast.

So, I get to San Francisco and go to the board to find the gate for my flight to Newark only to see that that flight has been delayed two hours due to an equipment delay. Now I will miss my connection to Dublin in Newark. I found the United customer service desk and they said all the flights to Dublin were full and the only way they could get me to Dublin the next day was through London-Heathrow. Not my favorite airport but OK, whatever works. They took the description of my bag but did not issue me a new claim check. I should have known then there would be trouble. But, hey, I’m an optimist.

So, I grab some lunch and find the gate for the London flight which boards smoothly and on time. Sitting on the plane the time ticks by and it is now 20 minutes past our departure time when the pilot comes over the loud speaker saying, “You may have noticed the mechanics out the right side of the plane” (I was on the left). So, we sat and waited for the mechanics to do their thing all the while getting hotter and hotter because the air conditioning is also not working. So, two hours later, the air conditioning and the right engine are fixed and we are on our way. I’m pretty sure I am going to miss my connection to Dublin but figured they should have more frequent flights from there than the U.S. I was lucky my seat mates decided to stretch out in empty seats in the middle and I at least had the row to myself though finding a comfortable position to sleep on the 10 hour flight still eluded me.

Of course, I was right, I missed my connection to Dublin by 20 minutes. United says don’t worry, we will have already booked you on the next flight just go to Aer Lingus and talk to them. Right. Bald faced lie. After negotiating the maze that is Heathrow, another trip through security (no TSA Pre here but at least you don’t have to take your shoes off in Europe) and a stop in customs I find my way to the gate of the flight I think I am booked on and there is no gate agent as there would be in the U.S., only people taking tickets and they are already starting to board. I rush back to the main lobby which looks more like a shopping mallOrange_taxi complete with and orange wire taxi installation and I can’t find the service desk anywhere. So, I go back to the gate and get in line and tell the ticket agent my sad tale of woe and she just says, no, you are not booked on this flight go back to the service desk and talk to them. Well, I am afraid earned some bad Karma with that woman but eventually set out to find the service desk which it turned out was tucked away in a little corner of the shopping mall. By this time the 9:50 flight is gone, the 10:55 flight is full and I am booked on the 12:00 flight.

So, I suck it up and email Road Scholar my new itinerary and they say don’t worry, someone will be there to meet you. To my chagrin the same agent was taking tickets for the 12:00 flight. She worked out some of the bad karma then and there. I’d had time to mellow and just let it roll off.

I got to Dublin and negotiated customs again and went to the bag claim thinking this is where I will be met but no one comes looking for me and my bag never comes down the chute. So, I go to Aer Lingus and report my bag missing and they say, yeah, it’s probably in Newark and I say, yeah, that’s what I think too. But apparently there is only one flight a day from Newark to Dublin. And of course when and if it arrives it will be at United not Aer Lingus.

So, I go on out and keep looking for someone holding a Road Scholar sign. Finally, I see a man holding a sign with my name on it. He says he was about to send out a search party but he was not allowed to go inside. So, I follow him out to the parking garage and try to get the in the passenger side of the front seat but there is a steering wheel there. Seamus (really, that was his name, he was very nice) politely reminded me that they drive on the wrong side of the road here. So, he drives me to Belfast and we have a lovely talk about Donald Trump and Brexit and the future of Northern Ireland. I have now connected with my group and shopped for a toothbrush and comb. Note to self: always have a change of underwear in your carry on bag.

Hoping and praying my bag will catch up with me tomorrow. I went to bed at 8:30 pm and slept like the dead for four hours. It is now 3:30am and I am writing this when I should be sleeping but according to my laptop which is still on Pacific Daylight Time, it is only 7:37pm so I expect I will fall asleep again about the time I should be getting up and putting on my dirty clothes to go down to breakfast.

Well my electrical adaptor is also in my checked bag and my laptop battery is now down to half charge so I’ll sign off for now.  Hoping to have pictures and better news tomorrow.

Last day in San Antonio

Our Mission_San_Joselast day in San Antonio focused on the Hispanic cultural influences. We started here at Mission San Jose, also known as the queen of the Missions. The San Antonio Missions are managed by the National Park Service though the churcheMission_San_Jose2s are still active Catholic parishes owned by the Church. The Missions were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Unfortunately we did not have time to visit all the Missions, something else to come back for! After a brief stop at Mission Conception where a funeral kept us outside the main church, we proceeded to tour the west side of San Antonio which is traditionally the Hispanic side of town. The resiMuraldents have embraced their cultural roots in the form of Murals telling the story of their community.
This is just one example of the colorful artworks that can be found throughout the area.

Next we had lunch at a local icon, Mi Tierra which was MiTierracolorfully decorated and served up a tasty Chile Relleno. I am sad to report that Texas has not embraced Green Chile. So, while tasty, it did not satisfy my craving for New Mexican cuisine.

Me Tierra is located at La Mercado, a Mexican market which offers up south of the border creations in all sizes shapes and colors. Especially colors! I foundArmadillo a lovely shawl suitable for outdoor theater nights in Ashland for only $10. I’m wondering if I should have bought two or three?  Airport travel being what it is I had to leave the armadillo there.

We then moved on to the Texas Institute of Cultures. A leftover museum from the San Antonio World’s Fair that celebrates the many Towercultures that have come together to make Texas what it is today. The Tower of the Americas also remains on the Hemisfair grounds. It was deliberately made taller than the Seattle Space Needle because, as we all know, everything is bigger in Texas.

Our tour  concluded with dinner at the Plaza Club overlooking the city as the sun was setting. Our band of seasoned travelers is moving on to new adventures but we will all remember the Alamo, the Riverwalk, and the graciousness of our Texas hosts.

Texas Hill Country

Bluebonnets3I’m glad I have spent a fair amount of time in the Hill Country on previBluebonnets2ous trips because one day just doesn’t do it justice. But we had lovely weather, the bluebonnets were out in
all their glory and our focus on LBJ gave me a chance to see some things I had missed on my earlier trips.

The previous day we had a very interesting talk on LBJ and his domestic programs to set the stage for our trip tLBJ_Boyhoodo his beloved Hill Country. We stopped only briefly at his
boyhood home in Johnson City then proceeded to the “Western White House” which is on a lovely site overlooking the PLBJ_Ranchedernales River. The ranch house is really quite modest for all the dignitaries who spent time there but was undoubtedly a welcome retreat for all, especially the beleaguered President.

Of course, no trip to the Hill Country is complete without a stop in charming FrederFredericksburgicksburg which was settled by Germans and built out of the native limestone of the area. These days the shops mostly cater to tourists and we did our bit by over indulging in a hearty German lunch, which most of us slept off during the bus ride back to San Antone.Bluebonnets

San Antonio Day 2

So yesterday was not a great day for photography because of the flat white skies and occasional light showers. Our outdoor activity consisted of a walk through an historic neighborhood with lots of beautiful homes. Unfortunately, all I can show you are a few architectural details because the whole house pictures just did not turn out well due to the flat light and ugly sky in the background.

Guenther_FiestaThis first picture is from the Guenther House where we ate lunch. Typical of the solid limestone buildings built by the German settlers who flocked into Texas in the mid to late 1800s and one of many listed on the National Register of historical places as the plaque states. But note the San Antonio twist, as the citizens prepare for thArcheseir annual fiesta, homes and businesses are decked out with brightly colored ornaments to celebrate the occasion. I believe the flags on this next home with beautiful arched window served the same purpose.
FlagSteinbeck is often quoted as saying Texas is a state of mind and so it is. They are proud of their state, proud of their history, proud of their flag and proud to tell you how many generations their family has lived in Texas. They love it that much. I can only be proud to tell you I am a fifth generation Vagabond as my ancestors just couldn’t get enough of moving west, though somehow they Petalmanaged to miss Texas altogether.  Maybe that was the problem.

I may have lied just a little
about it not being a great day for photography. It
was a great day
for macro photography wha
t with no wind, no shadows and lots of raindropleavess. So here are a few of my favorites.
RoseI ended my free afternoon at a great modern vibe restaurant with a southwest twist called Acenar. Overlooking the riverwalk I dined on the patio. My entree was duck crepes made with serano peppers and for desert, pineapple flan. So much fun to try new tastes!

Next up Lyndon Johnson and the Texas Hill Country.

San Antonio – Day 1

Day one of my Road Scholar adventure in San Antonio was very full so I am just now getting around to writing it up. We spent the morning listening to a fascinating lecture on the history of Texas then set out to make it real with a tour of the Alamo.

Alamo - Copy

Well the Alamo is well loved and well visited so I had to shoot over the crowds on this one and I grunged it up a bit because the skies were so boring. One thing the morning lecture did for me was put the battle of the Alamo into perspective because though the battle was lost the war was won. Possibly through dumb luck from the perspective of the lecturer. In any case Texas was born after the battle of San Jacinto and the Alamo defenders were vindicated if not revenged. Another thing I learned is that the famous hump on top of the Alamo wasn’t even there at the time of the battle(note the different colored stone). It was added many years lateMenger - Copyr when the ruined misson chapel was turned into a military supply depot.

The next stop on our tour was at the historic and reportedly haunted Menger Hotel. No ghosts were seen but the decor was worth the trip.

We then prRiverwalk_Barge - Copyoceeded via trolley to La Villita an old neighborhood now turned into shops.

We stopped at the theater to learn about the history of the Riverwalk which was originally envisioned as a Venitian canal flowing through downtown San Antonio. It took some tBarge_View - Copyime to put the dream into reality but the results are quite stunning. I did a painterly treatment to simplify this view of a barge passing by. Our own barge ride was at night and after dinner. The lights on the water make for lovely views.

Lights - CopyWe ended the day at the San Fernando Cathederal where a laser light show projected on the face of the building provided another perspective on Texas history. I only wish I could share all the amazing views of the Cathedral I shot during the show.

Next up the King William District and more on the Riverwalk.