Mont Saint Michel

MontStMichel

Certainly one of the highlights of the trip was our visit to Mont St. Michel. An abbey built on a Island beginning in the 11th century it is quite a mix of medieval architecture. It is also quite a climb to get up to the abbey. Like all unique historic places it is also overrun with tourists, though I have to say they do a pretty good job of managing the flow of visitors.

Ceiling

The ornately carved cloister, below, was especially spectacular. I just wish I had an opportunity to photograph it without all the people milling around.

Cloister

I was especially taken with this column decorated with a fleur de lis. I almost walked by the small statue of a knight in a niche on the way down the mountain but then I saw the swagger caught by the sculptor and had to take his picture.

FleurdeLis

 

Knight

 

Bayeux

We spent 3 days in Bayeux which is a charming little town with a high street full of shops and a cathedral that defies the relatively small population. Our mission was to learn about the Battle of Normandy and the D Day Invasion. In the end it was more information than I really wanted or needed. I found the time exploring the Cathedral on my own much more satisfying. But I will include one picture of the crosses at the cemetery above Omaha Beach just to keep it real. In addition to the cemetery we spent time at the Caen Memorial, a museum about World War II. We also visited Omaha Beach, one of five stretches of sand invaded by the allies on June 6, 1944. Today we move on to the Loire Valley with a stop at Mont Ste Michel which our guide assures us is a major tourist trap.

 BayeauxCathedral2BayeauxCathedral3

 

BayeauxCathedral

Crosses

Paris

LeTourEiffel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This morning we boarded our bus at 9:45 for a two hour, whirlwind tour of central Paris. We were only allowed off the bus one time to take pictures of the Eiffel Tower so it was shoot from the bus or forget it. I can’t say many of my pictures turned out well as the bus was traveling pretty fast. Fortunately I had taken a walk down to the Opera right after breakfast so I had a few pictures that didn’t involve the discolorization of the tinted bus window.

I was fascinated by the architecture which mostly dates to the Housingmodernization of the city in the late 1800s. Some buildings are more ornate than others and some have the flatiron style of angled intersections. But for the most part they have a similar look. It must have been an interesting time of building and redevelopment. It was explained to us that before elevators the choices apartments were on the ground and 1st floors. Widows lived on the 3rd and 4th floors and the cheap seats were near the top of the stairs. After elevators came along the higher floors became the realm of the rich.

ArcdTriumphBesides the Eiffel Tower we buzzed by the Louve, the Arc de Triumph, the Place de la Concorde, Notre Dame, the Musee Orsy and a few other landmark buildings and institutions located along the banks of the Seine.

Then we stopped for lunch back in the Opera district. Our guide described itLunch as a light meal but it seemed like a full dinner to me. We had the most delicious fish I have ever eaten, spinach and a lovely sauce, no doubt loaded with butter. For dessert they brought out cream puffs loaded with ice cream and swimming in chocolate sauce. I don’t know how I am going to be able to start turning these deserts away.

DessertBottom line, I saw enough of Paris to be intrigued and want to come back. Someone suggested visiting in the winter to find the museums less overcrowded. Might have to give that a try.

After lunch we left Paris behind and made our way to Bayeaux. The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to a French Super Market. Not too different from home but the meat department was much more interesting. We had another outstanding dinner. Chicken in a mushroom sauce with fried potatoes. For dessert an apple tart with ice cream. These people do know how to eat. I just don’t get how they stay so thin.

And That’s a Wrap

Today for my final day in Great Smokey Mountains National Park I went searching for waterfalls. I found a couple. There were more in the area of the Juney Whank falls but after hiking a quarter mile up hill and then back down I was hot and tired of carrying all my camera gear so decided to let the others go. 

JuneyWhank1

Base of Juney Whank Falls

 

JuneyWhankFalls

Juney Whank Falls

But after a rest I headed up to Mingo Falls which is technically outside the park and on Cherokee lands but still beautiful in spite of a very long steep set of stairs to get there. I only wish some people would teach their children to be quiet and listen to the beautiful sounds of nature. Mingo Falls is said to be one of the highest in Southern Appalachia.

MingoFalls

Mingo Falls

After a final stop at the Oconaluftee visitor’s center to pick up some music to put into a slide show I went back to my room for a little rest. Then I headed to the Qualla Arts Center to view some Native American crafts. I liked the baskets but they were too big to take home. I had to skip the Cherokee museum this time as I have been told it takes all day to do it justice and I didn’t want to pay $12.00 to just breeze through. 

After consulting Trip Advisor I had concluded that the only good restaurants in this area were in the casino so I decided to head over there and check it out. Oh, my, this place makes Seven Feathers look like amateur hour. I sat down thinking to make a donation to the tribe and immediately won $75.00. I yo-yoed for a while but ended the day with $40 more in my pocket than I started with and a nice meal to boot.

Just to round out my trip I decided to go back up to Mingus Mill this evening and try to get the picture I had to give up on when we were there the other day. Not only did I have the place to myself, I had the added bonus of better light on the mill and a slow enough shutter speed to get some nice flow in the flume. 

MingusMill

Mingus Mill

And that, my friends, is the end of my Great Smokey Mountains Adventure. I saw most of the park accessible by road and got to know much of it’s history. I thought this might be enough to scratch my itch to see the Smokies but I don’t know, I may have to come back again to see it in the fall.

Check back around the end of August when I will be reporting my next adventure which will be in France.

 

 

On My Own Again

After a look at some of our pictures this morning we were given a box lunch and set free to pursue our own adventures. I decided to head back up to the Blue Ridge Parkway to make my way back to the North Carolina side of the Park where I will be staying the next two nights. I stopped along the way to practice creating a forest abstract using intentional movement of the camera. I’ve been trying to get a good result with this all week and finally got one I like.

BRP1

View from the Blue Ridge Parkway

 

Forest_abstract

Forest Abstract

I then spent some time photographing along the Oconaluftee River practicing my new skills with running water. Then I stop back in at the Farm Museum to play with my Lensbaby Sweet 50 which hadn’t been out of the bag yet this trip.

OcanolufteeRiver

Oconaluftee River

Chain

Chain

Iris

Iris

Now settled into my hotel in Cherokee, I’ll set out tomorrow morning in search of waterfalls in the Deep Creek area.  

Of Mountains and Rivers

The Great Smokey Mountains adventure continues. Yesterday we had a critique in the morning then hopped on the bus and retraced my path back to Gatlinburg to see a cabin I had visited last week. Once again there were too many photographers milling around to get the photos I would have like but I managed a few new angles. I also hiked to a small mill but met some people coming back who said they had seen a bear there. I went ahead but didn’t stay long. I didn’t see the bear but one of my colleagues who was a ways behind me did.

After lunch at the cabin we proceeded to the middle prong of the Little Pigeon River where we had lots of time to play with long exposures of flowing water. I got a few good shots and the butterfly which parked itself next to a cairn seemed quite Zenlike.

This morning we set out for the high country to photograph landscapes along Newfound Gap road. There were also a few wildflowers out but not too many where we stopped. I may have to go back tomorrow afternoon or Saturday when I will be on my own again. But first some mountain music tonight and another critique session tomorrow morning.

Ogle_Fireplace

Bud Ogle Cabin Fireplace

 

Cairn

Cairn with Butterfly

 

Flow

Flow

 

Leaf

Leaf

 

Bluets

Bluets

 

Clingman1

Mountains

Busy Photographers

It’s been a busy few days with the Road Scholars. We started Sunday evening with presentations from all three of our leaders/instructors. Monday morning we were in the classroom and in the afternoon we went out to photograph in the Cataloochee Valley. There we found elk, rushing streams and old homes, not quite as rustic as those in Cades Cove but always interesting. The elk were particularly interested in our picnic supper so we did not have to seek them out as we had planned.

This morning we were up before dawn to head out to photograph the sunrise and after breakfast headed back to the Oconaluftee visitor center and museum and the Mingus Mill where I had been last Thursday. All the photographers milling around made photographing a bit of a challenge but I found focusing on little things was the most successful approach.

This evening we had a fascinating film about a Japanese photographer who help to establish the Appalachian Trail and Great Smokey Mountains National Park. It is now 9pm and I am exhausted and tomorrow we have another full day followed by a Farm to Table Dinner. So, herewith some photos from the past two days and promises to report back again but probably not tomorrow.

Elk

Elk Cataloochee Valley

 

 

Creek

Rushing Stream Cataloochee Valley

 

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Sunrise Purchase Knob

 

Fence

Fence Purchase Knob

 

wildflowers

Wildflowers Mingus Mill

A Study in Monochrome

So, the promised rain finally arrived. It was only drizzling a little when I went out for breakfast, so I thought I could risk the one block walk to the Log Cabin Pancake House. But when I came out of the restaurant to walk back it was a genuine certifiable gully washer. Fortunately, the restaurant had a front porch complete with rocking chairs, so I was able to sit and wait for it to settle down to a nice gentle downpour.

Back at the condo I read through all the brochures once more trying to decide what I am going to do tomorrow if it is still raining. I have to check out from here at 10am and can’t get into the next place until 4pm. I’m hoping the weather won’t be too bad so I can visit the folk art center near Ashville and take in a little more of the Blue Ridge Parkway. If worse comes to worst maybe they will take pity on me at the Lambuth Inn and let me check in early or at least sit in their lobby and stay dry.

The rain stopped for awhile just after noon so I decided if I was going to have lunch (though I was still pretty full from breakfast), it would have to be then. So, I walked down to the main drag, about 4 or 5 blocks from my condo. I walked around long enough to discern that downtown Gatlinburg is just as disgusting and blatantly out to reap the tourist dollar as I had thought. And, if you were worried about Paula Deen being fired from the Food network, don’t be, she has her fingers in numerous pies around here. At least two restaurants I’ve heard about, a theme park on Lumberjacks, and yes, the Paula Deen store in downtown Gatlinburg, “It’s all about butter.” I’m not sure if the lady herself is the tycoon behind all this or she is just selling her name.

In any case, I stopped by the local Walgreens (I still haven’t found a supermarket) and picked up some more emergency food supplies and a new pair of sunglasses (ever the optimist)  since I left mine at home (hey, it was dark when I arrived at the airport).  Then I went looking for a restaurant where I could get something besides pizza, a burger, fudge or caramel corn. I spotted TGI Friday’s and decided that would have to do as it was starting to rain again.  Well, you know, the government has ruined the experience of eating at chain restaurants because they are now forced to list calories for everything. I finally opted for French Onion soup and a house salad because it was the only thing I could find under 1000 calories. And after the breakfast of blueberry crepes and a side of bacon… I guess dinner isn’t even an option.

So, by the time I was done with lunch the rain had set in in earnest again and I was drenched by the time I got back to the condo. We Oregonians, of course spurn umbrellas, especially when travelling on airplanes. I started a new book while I dried out then sat down at the computer and started playing with some of the images from the past few days. I found myself turning to monochrome a lot so Here at last are some pictures for you to enjoy, a study in monochrome. The rain has stopped again, by the way, and it doesn’t look too bad on the radar. But, after a long debate with myself, I decided to forego the possibility of rainbows and stay cozy and dry and see what tomorrow brings. I think there is an evening program with the Road Scholars tomorrow so I may or may not get around to blogging. But don’t worry, I’ll be back.

A Study in Monochrome – Great Smokey Mountain National Park and vicinity

TreeinFog

Tree in Fog

 

 

RiverRock

River Rock

 

Hayrake

Hayrake

 

Fern

Fern

 

ReaganHouse

Reagan House

 

Great Smokey Mountains – Cades Cove/Roaring Fork

Cable_MillI set out today up the Little River to Cades Cove. This is an area of scenic vistas and well preserved historic buildings. Churches, cabins, a mill, barns were all in the mix. Unfortunately, it is one of the most popular areas in the Park and even on a Friday morning inHorseshoe_Hinge May it was well attended. I refrained from killing one German tourist in particular and still managed to get some good images. I hate to think what it must be like in summer.

I have to say, I have never seen so many butterflies in one place just flying around. There werButterflye literally everywhere. This blue one stopped to pose for me, not the best background but they don’t often stop so I couldn’t be choosy. I may be able to pretty it up with a new background when I have a little more time for processing. There were a lot of yellow ones as well.

I was ready to leave the hoards behind by noon and retreCarterShieldsCabinated to Gatlinburg for a rest in my room and lunch at Bubba Gumps before a late afternoon foray to Roaring Fork Motor Nature trail. More cabins and some nice stream and waterfall access. I was afraid to go on a hike as they keep forecasting rain though it has not yet materialized. Tomorrow is up to 80% chances but that’s down from the 90% they were forecasting as if yesterday so we’ll see. It does make it hard to plan but I may try for another shot at CadThousandDripses Cove later in the day after the masses have gone to dinner tomorrow if it is not raining.

Great Smokey Mountains – Blue Ridge Parkway

My Great Smokey Mountain Intensive started out well with arriving in Greenville, South Carolina only a half hour late and with all luggage at hand, in spite of travelling on three airplanes over a 12-hour time span.  Tight connections all around and a three hour time change meant I had to dip into my emergency food supply for dinner, supplemented by some high carb snackLookingGlassFallss which were the only thing available at the hotel.

Looking at the map to plan my route to Gatlinburg this morning revealed that the terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway occurs at the boundary of the Great Smokey Mountains National Park. The Blue Ridge and the Great Smokies it turns out are parallel ranges within the Appalachian Mountains.  Anyway, I headed north into the mountains with the in intention of sailing into the Park via the lLandscape2ast 50 miles of the Parkway. Even before reaching the Parkway the scenery became amazing and I encountered my first waterfall in the Pisgah National Forest. Looking Glass Falls can be accessed from a stairway by the side of the road. I made the mistake of not taking my super wide-angle lens down to the base of the falls. So, while I got the shot, I would have liked a little more of the surrounding rocks and forests. I would have gone back but there were a LOT of stairs and my heart was already thanking me for the workout.

LandscapeThe views along the Parkway were nothing short of breathtaking. Even on a cloudy day. Some azaleas and rhododendrons were in bloom along with numerous other wild flowers. Toward the higher elevations I encountered some fog which was enchanting until it turned to pea soup. But it didn’t last too long. There were plenty of long vistas to be had.

AzaleaI had been worried that the 120 or so mile drive would get me into Gatlinburg before I could check in to my condo for the next three nights but there was nothing to worry about as there were plenty of things to stop and photograph and I didn’t even make it to my planned lunch stop before my stomach insisted on a detour. I found a little place called Country Vittles in Maggie Valley. A real family run business, Grandma showed me to my table, Mom brought out my food and took my money and granddaughter Pearl was the waitress and bus girl. The daily special was Chicken and dumplings and the vegetable of the day was pickled beets. To which I added fried okra for my second side, a delicacy I have not tasted since my last visit to North Carolina. Of course, a biscuit and cornbread were served with the meal though I had to shy away from a commodity labeled “whipped spread” which purported to be 48% vegetable oil but was vague on the other 52%.

Cabin_OcoArriving at the Park after another half hour’s drive I stopped off at the Oconaluftee Visitor center and toured the life-sized farm museum on the grounds. I especially liked the Irises planted next to the log cabin.  By this time, I was beginning to zone out and even had to take a short nap in a roadside pull off. Then I proceeded to Gatlinburg (can you say tourist trap extraordinaire?). The condo took some finding and the time share people had to give me a sales pitch before letting me go to my room. Next time Holiday Inn Express, I think.

After perusing the billion or so brochures I have picked up today I set out to find dinner. I was excited to hear about a BBQ joint just a couple of blocks fromIris_Oco my digs (no more driving today, yay). I should have known when I walked in and saw no other diners that it was not going to go well. I almost walked out when the guy handed me a styrofoam cup for my iced tea (No, Jeanne, we are not in Oregon anymore). But I was tired and hungry so I went ahead with the most mediocre BBQ I’ve ever eaten (How do you ruin barbeque?). Oh, well, I still have that coupon for Bubba Gump Shrimp that the time share sales lady gave me for tomorrow night. I still haven’t figured out where it is though I should have walked right by it on the way to Bones BBQ. My recollection of my one and only previous Bubba Gump Shrimp experience was underwhelmed and overpriced. But hey, I’m here for the scenery.